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Need help testing gauges

74Runneer

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Twin Cities, MN
I yanked the gauge cluster out of my 1974 road runner so that I could test and fix my gas, temp, oil, and batt gauges. I bought a new rte solid state voltage limiter.

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This is my test set up. I attached the 12v to the red which goes to the ivr, then the 5v from the ivr goes to the temp, oil and fuel gauge. I then hooked up a resistor (10, 22, 68 ohm) to the opposite peg of the 5v and then grounded it at the ivr and then to the battery. I tried this and all the gauges pegged out. I then tried using a 9v batt instead of a 12 going through the ivr. So I wired the + to the 5v peg and then wired the resistor in and grounded it. I did this with the gas gauge and it worked and the gauge read correctly for each of the resistors. However i did the same set up with the oil gauge and it didn't move at all and I did it for the temp and it read 0, 1/4, and 3/4. Does this mean my oil and temo gauges are shot? I need help, thanks
 
I had sent my cluster to Bob's speedometer and had them go through it and they did a great job and coated the circuit board
 
Mine doesn't have a circuit board, just connected by wires. How much did he charge you for it?

- - - Updated - - -

Okay so I tried using the 9V again and it seems like the temp gauge works for the most part and the oil gauge reads the middle mark for the 10 ohm resistor and it reads a quarter for the 22 ohm one.
 
Upon looking at your setup it looks like part of your problem is you're grounding out the voltage from the regulator on the casing. It looks like the two black wires that are connecting to the two terminals in the center of the photo don't have the fiber straps that go under the terminal nuts,that would explain why the gauges pegged out so quickly and more than likely they are burned out as well.You also won't need the condenser any longer with the solid state vr.Why are you having to use resistors with the vr? Is it putting out more than 5 volts to the gauges? To test each gauge all you need to do is make sure you have the 5 volts connected to the the terminals that are opposite of the color labeling(the ones labeled gray,violet and blue hook up to your motor sending units.)so all the black wires from the vr will hook up to the non labeled sides which is the + side ,after that ground each colored terminal as mentioned above and each gauge should move slowly from left to right. I hope this helps and let us know what you figure out,good luck.
 
I dont have any fiber straps on the oil or fuel gauges. Do i need them? I''l get rid of the condenser. The limiter is working right, I called RTE and they said that if my limiter's LED light is blinking then its putting out the 5V like its supposed to, and it is. I was using the resistors to simulate the sending units because 73 Ohms is empty, 23 ohms is half, and 10ohms is full, so using the resistors theoretically i should be able to test my gauges.
 
actually for just check for working conditions, a regular 9 volts batt sourcing each gauge for a couple of seconds is enough. Needle will move fast. JUST a couple of seconds, or will burn the gauges.

Then, calibration, is another story and is posted on the link from DC.com
 
Okay so I sent it in to Bob's Speedometer and they fixed it and calibrated the gauges. Now i just want to make sure all of the bulbs work correctly. Is there a way that i can test to make sure all of the bulbs work?
 
Wow, I certainly am not impressed by bobs speedometers customer service...

You send in the gauge. and they call. you pay. you get it in the mail... don't call and pester or for tech... they just fix them...

I can't remember what I paid but it was around $300 door to door to get a good core from e bay with a dead speedometer.
 
I just called to see how the process works and the guy was just rude. I called again and the guy was very helpful so I send it in.
 
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