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Need help with correct date code spark plug wires

albert 5694

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Hello i am trying to get the correct advise on how to know for sure what the correct date coded spark plug wires would be for my car i have looked at several places and one tells me that if the car was built in the first quarter of the year ( September of the previous year to March 1st of the following year) i need 3Q of previous year and ( March to September of the current year i need 1Q of that year) Any guidance would be grateful as i don't want to buy them twice. Classic industries states if my car was built in the 1Q i need wires from 1Q everybody else is saying if it is built in the 1Q then i need 3Q from previous year. My car is a 1969 GTX 440 HP with a build date of 2nd week of February 1969 also are the reproduction date coded wires upgraded as far as the core and the materials that the boots are made of. The reason i ask is i don"t want radio noise and i do not have the heat shields for the #6 #8 and #7 plugs i was told the new wires are original in appearance but have been made to today quality standards thanks for your help.
 
With a Feb SBD, 1st quarter of that year is correct


Wires are basically same as back then . maybe slightly better

No worries with radio interference

The manufacture will tell you not to be used on cars converted to electronic. BUT I sold and used them on A LOT of cars converted as such ( I was a former dealer for them )
 
Thank you for the info i did forget to tell everybody in my earlier post my car dose have the Mopar performance #3690432 electronic upgraded ignition with the gold box so will these still work on this. Don't mind spending the money just don't want to do it more then once trying to keep my car as original as possible visually it is 98%
 
I used them on my own cars and sold them to dozens of cars that were converted . Never had an issue , EVER

That said, I was running a full Mopar electronic ignition and OEM stock coil
 
Don't mind spending the money just don't want to do it more then once trying to keep my car as original as possible visually it is 98%
So you'll be changing the wheels and tires next?
 
OK thanks that is exactly what i am running full Mopar electronic ignition and stock coil sounds good. Never say never on the wheels and tires all i know is i went to the local car show of over 200 cars and won best it show with these wheels and tires hens the 98% original.
 
A Mopar Performance Gold controller
(as you call box/I assume you're referring to, the ignition box)
or Direct Connection Gold (RACE) 'Box' controller isn't a 'street box'...
it's not intended to be ran more than 30 min.s at a time,
it's race only or don't run it long it will fry the transistor on top
& the controller CEI 'box' requires a/the proper coil, matching the low ohm resistance...

Not to nit pick but;
that's nowhere near OE or stock,
aftermarket wheels & tires
(I actually prefer over especially dork dish & painted wheels, not harm no foul in my mind)
so people judging at that show
don't know crap about stock MoPars/OE or dated coded crap anyway,
so then its not anywhere near OE
so then why worry about OE #s matching or date coded wires ?
you also have after market wheels & tires
I assume the wiring harness has been modified to accept the
CEI Controller & distributor/matching coil too
you have an aftermarket ignition system, that neither are date coded either
is the carb, air-cleaner, exhaust/mufflers, paint color/code, alternator, starter,
:blah: you get my gist I assume
"wiring we know isn't" either

98% maybe a bit lower than that estimate, a lot

anyway, splitting hairs, that was a big red pubic one

good luck
 
Thanks for the info as far as the box i assume this is the gold one all i know it was on the car when i got it 8 years ago and i have drove it several hours at a time with no issues. Hear is a picture of it just so somebody can confirm maybe it is not the race version i know it has a black heat sink on it. Yes the carburetor is the correct one per my build sheet the air cleaner is also correct i just installed a Glen Ray radiator with correct numbers as well as the correct power steering cooler as i said it is not 100% and probably never will but as i replace things i am doing it correctly so i get closer everyday.

20240722_180223.jpg
 
With a Feb SBD, 1st quarter of that year is correct


Wires are basically same as back then . maybe slightly better

No worries with radio interference

The manufacture will tell you not to be used on cars converted to electronic. BUT I sold and used them on A LOT of cars converted as such ( I was a former dealer for them )
I bought a set of date-coded ignition leads from Year One back about 22 years ago, and I think it's fair to say they lasted about 4-5 years if that before the breakdown began. I had them nicely routed as well. I bought another set off a member here as well after that, and they stayed on for another 4-5 years.
The Number 8 plug end did burn up eventually, but the rest were fair condition.

I ended up replacing with a generic black set of 8mm leads that lasted longer - and adding some heat-proof sleeving on the plug ends helped a lot.
 
Thanks i am leaning the same way just going with generic the date coded ones would be worth it if they were as good as a good set of black generic 8 mm wires but from what everybody is saying they are not as good as a better aftermarket set. I do only drive the car about 200 to 300 miles a year so they would probably last a long time for me.
 
Thanks i am leaning the same way just going with generic the date coded ones would be worth it if they were as good as a good set of black generic 8 mm wires but from what everybody is saying they are not as good as a better aftermarket set. I do only drive the car about 200 to 300 miles a year so they would probably last a long time for me.
When I said black, I should have said decent quality also - I am sure they were the MSD leads -

1969 DODGE CHARGER MSD Ignition 5531 MSD Street Fire Spark Plug Wire Sets | Summit Racing

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