Need ideas for routing power wires to the battery

[themechanic]

I have added power windows and locks, an aftermarket stereo including 2 amps, headlight relay kit, etc. Most items need a direct connection to the positive battery post. But I don't want 6 wires running out of the battery post. Like this guy



I appreciate any viable solutions anyone can offer.

 

[snakeoil24]

A terminal block will solve this issue, also get fusable link for each power adder. call mad electric ask for mark..

 

[themechanic]

What gauge wire should I use between the terminal block and the battery?

 

[soundhd]

I just added a Painless brand aux fuse block to my 70 RR
http://www.painlessperformance.com/ go to page #92 in the catalog.
I added power windows, aftermarket stereo system with a amp mounted in the trunk. Going to add a couple other things later, but the aux fuse blocks come in 3 or 4 different configurations depending on your power needs. Nice and neat and out of the way.

 

[Glenwood]

What gauge wire should I use between the terminal block and the battery?

depends on all of the loads that will be connected to it. You'll probably be looking at 10awg to be safe. A fusible link would be wise on this wire.

 

[Shorthorse]

You didn't mention whether all those added pieces are fused or not but they should be. If not, you can add another fuse block virtually anywhere. Add up the amp draw of all the devices and pick a gauge that will carry the load and then some. Wiring load and gauge specifications can be found easily online. Make sure the aux. fuse block is rated for the total of the draw needed. Snakeoil24's recommendation about feeding the fuse block with a fusible link is excellent. Companies like Painless offer good quality products but aren't cheap. If you just need a fuse panel, I like ones made by Blue Sea, great quality.

 

[themechanic]

Both the 4 channel amp and powered sub-woofer are fused inline and at the amp. The power windows are fused and run via relay. The power locks are also fused and relayed.

I have the Painless 7 circuit fuse box (specs below) running off the factory box via the provided fuse tap. I'm running aftermarket radio and gauges off that.

CirKit Boss 70107- Provides three 20 Amp constant hot and four ignition hot circuits with a maximum total amperage handling of 40 Amps.

This kit includes:

One 40 Amp SPST relay
One 50 Amp circuit breaker
Relay base/fuse block with harness
Crimp-on terminals
Mounting hardware



The problem is that the headlights, amps, windows, locks and Painless fuse box all need a connection "at the battery".

I'm thinking I should run a heavy gauge wire into the car connected to a distribution block where I can connect all those there.

What do you guys think? Is it OK to run those items off the Painless fuse box?

 

[CoronetDarter]

As I'm working through the wiring on my Coronet I have the same issues. I was tooling around the DelCity site for ideas. Like you mentioned, my thought is to run one wire off of the Batt+ to the main stud on the junction block and distributing the accessory wires from there. My battery is in the trunk so the block can be mounted back there, cleaning up the engine compartment.

http://www.delcity.net/store/8-Point-Junction-Block/p_801580

Interested to hear other members thoughts.

 

[themechanic]

Wookie316 sent me a link to his build photos. Here's how he did his in trunk battery connections.



I ordered a fused distribution block that I'll run 4 gauge from the battery to the block under the dash then connect my 10 gauge power wires from accessories. Heres the Audiopipe PDCP1414 Fuseblock 4-AGU W/Ground Distribution



Check out Knuconceptz Ebay store for your wiring.

http://stores.ebay.com/KnuKonceptz-com?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

 

[CoronetDarter]

Fancy! I saw this one and others like it when cruising e-bay. We're both on the same track, just 19' apart.

 

[themechanic]

Yep.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

With ammeter in line, accesories must be sourced AFTER the ammeter, on alt side side of the charging line. It can be from Amm stud itself.

Feed accesories from batt is A TOTAL MISTAKE which is one of the causes to overload the ammeter and lines. Specially with underrated stock alts.

 

[Grabinov911]

I just added a Painless brand aux fuse block to my 70 RR
http://www.painlessperformance.com/ go to page #92 in the catalog.
I added power windows, aftermarket stereo system with a amp mounted in the trunk. Going to add a couple other things later, but the aux fuse blocks come in 3 or 4 different configurations depending on your power needs. Nice and neat and out of the way.

X2. This is a great, neat, safe way to go for adding accessories. Try it and you'll never go back...

 

[themechanic]

With ammeter in line, accesories must be sourced AFTER the ammeter, on alt side side of the charging line. It can be from Amm stud itself.

Feed accesories from batt is A TOTAL MISTAKE which is one of the causes to overload the ammeter and lines. Specially with underrated stock alts.

I did the ammeter bypass and upgraded the alternator.