Need some help getting the 63 vert started?

[RUMBLON]

63 POLARA 500 CONVERTIBLE THREAD MANAGER

OK first off I ma no great mechanic. I prefer body and paint work.
Almost a year ago I bought a 63 Polara 500 convertible. 383 push button auto.
I have now just found some time to get it in the shop, as I have sold some other projects and made room.

The car is from the pacific coast and it has some build up of rust on certain contcats, ect that I usually dont see in Nevada.

I went to try and start the vehicle and no started turning at all.? I checked the coil with the key in the on position and I have power at both side of the coil. These rigs have much older ignition parts than my cudas and the late 60s/ 70s stuff I am used to.

Where do I start with trying to track it down on why it wont turn over? Is there a specific order in which to narrow things down? I checked the leads at the starter and they are tight.

Thanks for any help,

Dave

 

[Red63440]

With as much corrosion as there is if it were me I would remove (one at a time) and clean all the contacts..on everything. Moisture has a way of destroying contacts including the main engine ground. I would also coat most of the contacts with dielectric grease where possible. If you have juice and power then nothing is getting to the starter so I would also check the ignition switch or try jumping the contacts to see if the starter picks up. Good luck..

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Fresh fuel supply,check for squirt,check for spark,fire inda hole:hello2:

 

[dave5237]

This may sound stupid but make sure this thing turns over by hand. I am assuming you bought it a year ago and it ran. Its probably electrical by the looks of it but you never know.

 

[RUMBLON]

This may sound stupid but make sure this thing turns over by hand. I am assuming you bought it a year ago and it ran. Its probably electrical by the looks of it but you never know.

You mean try and use a socket at the crank pulley? I bought it ayear ago and it has not run in 20 years or so. I didnt care if it ran as I was going to use a 500 stroker I have here but since it had a 383 in it, I thought I use it and get another as a pair.

If te motor is frozen, will it make any sort of sound? There is no started sound at all.

RUMBLON

 

[Red63440]

You mean try and use a socket at the crank pulley? I bought it ayear ago and it has not run in 20 years or so. I didnt care if it ran as I was going to use a 500 stroker I have here but since it had a 383 in it, I thought I use it and get another as a pair.

If te motor is frozen, will it make any sort of sound? There is no started sound at all.

RUMBLON

I agree, try turning it over by hand. It could be that the starter is shot and if it is there will not be any sound...except the tears hitting the ground.:angry9:

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I missed the part wher it hasn't started in 20 yearsAs suggested,see if engine moves freely.Completely drain fuel,oil.Clean the carb up with carb cleaner.See if you have spark and check that the carb fills with fuel or have a small container to spill gas down the carb throat to help things along.

 

[RUMBLON]

This may sound stupid but make sure this thing turns over by hand. I am assuming you bought it a year ago and it ran. Its probably electrical by the looks of it but you never know.

You mean try and use a socket at the crank pulley? I bought it ayear ago and it has not run in 20 years or so. I didnt care if it ran as I was going to use a 500 stroker I have here but since it had a 383 in it, I thought I use it and get another as a pair.

If te motor is frozen, will it make any sort of sound? There is no started sound at all.

RUMBLON

 

[RUMBLON]

I guess I didnt really answer you. It does turn over via breaker bar at the crank pulley, not easy but it turn. I think its an electrical thing.

I just thought there was an order that I could check things in or perhaps since its a push button car, I was missing osmething. I have tried it in park and in neutral, no go, all of the other items, wiper, lights, fan are working, so I believe (?) that means the main engine contact is fine???.

I do have power at both ends of the coil, so maybe its in between the coil and starter. If I was to jump the starter, which two contacts do I use?

RUMBLON

 

[RUMBLON]

I missed the part wher it hasn't started in 20 yearsAs suggested,see if engine moves freely.Completely drain fuel,oil.Clean the carb up with carb cleaner.See if you have spark and check that the carb fills with fuel or have a small container to spill gas down the carb throat to help things along.

Hey HEMI, I am at a cross roads in that I have a 650 HP 500 eddy headed stroker sitting here. Trying to decide if I should use it on this vert of find a HT and keep the 383. I guess I will start fresh and drain th eoil and see if the fuel tank is any good. I guess since it spins via the crank pully then its worth all the effort you mentioned.

Its very dirty and greesy. But its an original big block vert and I love the car. I guess I have pipe dreams that the 383 will run perfect but thought I would give it a chance.

How about any sort of penetration oil or lube since its been sitting so long?

RUMBLON

 

[Deleted member 214]

On my 70, a cable goes from the battery to a lug on a solenoid and another cable on to the battery. Th solenoid can be bad. It can by bypassed by carefully touching a screwdriver across them. If the starter jumps when you do that, bad solenoid, bad connection between the solenoid and the ignition switch, or bad switch. On my car, it is the thing left of the master cylinder. Your car, looks like the thing with the red and yellow wires right of the voltage regulator .

 

[Red63440]

Hey HEMI, I am at a cross roads in that I have a 650 HP 500 eddy headed stroker sitting here. Trying to decide if I should use it on this vert of find a HT and keep the 383. I guess I will start fresh and drain th eoil and see if the fuel tank is any good. I guess since it spins via the crank pully then its worth all the effort you mentioned.

Its very dirty and greesy. But its an original big block vert and I love the car. I guess I have pipe dreams that the 383 will run perfect but thought I would give it a chance.

How about any sort of penetration oil or lube since its been sitting so long?

RUMBLON

I would remove the plugs and squirt a little penetrating fluid in each cylinder to loosen up the rings. 20 years is a long time for an engine to sit without moving. Bring that stroker down here and I will hook you up with a 383 for your vert, all ready to run.ottytrain1:

 

[fugly]

The yellow wire at the top of your relay in you pic comes from the ignition switch- put a voltmeter or test light there and turn the key to start- this should show voltage when you turn to start- if not you have a problem, most likely with your ignition switch since the rest of the electrical works ( or the wire between the switch and the relay, which in this case could be the bulkhead connector contacts- big black thing where the wires go thru the firewall). The black one at the top is neutral safety. take the connector off and ground the terminal with a wire -try again- if this works the neutral safty switch is bad or your trans is out of adjustment-if your brakes are good, try holding the key to start and running thru all the gears- if the starter works somewhere weird (like third) you need to adjust the cable. The other small wire ( tied to the big red one going to the starter) is where you jump to try it manually(jump between the big red and the small wire). if that works , it is one of the aforementioned circuits or the primary side of your relay, if not check the big red wire for power (if it is dead you have a bad cable between the starter and relay if you do have power your relay or starter solenoid is bad

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

MAN, I wish you lived closer I would re wire you whole car in trade for some body work on mine! Oh well as stated start from the ignition switch and work you way out to the distributor, like stated check for voltage coming from the ignition switch to the starter relay first if none then first fix then go on to trace volts to voltage reg and alt. check out the wiring diagram.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63PolaraA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63PolaraB.JPG

 

[RUMBLON]

The yellow wire at the top of your relay in you pic comes from the ignition switch- put a voltmeter or test light there and turn the key to start- this should show voltage when you turn to start- if not you have a problem, most likely with your ignition switch since the rest of the electrical works ( or the wire between the switch and the relay, which in this case could be the bulkhead connector contacts- big black thing where the wires go thru the firewall). The black one at the top is neutral safety. take the connector off and ground the terminal with a wire -try again- if this works the neutral safty switch is bad or your trans is out of adjustment-if your brakes are good, try holding the key to start and running thru all the gears- if the starter works somewhere weird (like third) you need to adjust the cable. The other small wire ( tied to the big red one going to the starter) is where you jump to try it manually(jump between the big red and the small wire). if that works , it is one of the aforementioned circuits or the primary side of your relay, if not check the big red wire for power (if it is dead you have a bad cable between the starter and relay if you do have power your relay or starter solenoid is bad

Fugly, thanks, this was a big help and in seconds I had an idea.

First I have no power at the yellow wire and when I turn the key, I dont even have that play like it should turn it to start.

I know how to jump the terminal in my Cuda and later mods but this was just different enough where I was hesitant. When I did so, the engine turned, so the started should be fine.

I will start with an ignition switch and see what happens. I changed the oil and will order a fuel tank but just use a local fuel bottle until I get that.

Thanks for the help.

RUMBLON

 

[RUMBLON]

Well, just removed this, I would say there is a chance that one or both pieces are bad! come on pic!

 

[Red63440]

It looks like the rear of the switch is broken away from the housing. The key part is a breeze to replace but I doubt if it would be the cause of the problem.