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Need to tighten up my bottom

bobtile

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Whos girdle are you guys wearing and why?
 
hangin out at those kinky strip joints where men take off their clothes again??

 
440 source on the last one I built. girdles are all pretty equal. Just make sure it comes with arp hardware.

IMG_2132.JPG
 
I use a 440 Source girdle and along with 440 Source Steel Billet Main Caps....I now have 86 runs on my new 505" and so far absolutely no problems. I also have the 440 Source Aluminum Rocker Arms which hold their valve lash settings almost perfectly between each time I check the lash (which is about 25 runs between checking) (Comp Solid Lifter Cam).
 
440 source on the last one I built. girdles are all pretty equal. Just make sure it comes with arp hardware.

View attachment 369923
There has to be some differences in these things.
Ive looked at the 440 source one,
Mancini, Hughes , CRE, etc.
Pretty big price range on them.
 
I use a 440 Source girdle and along with 440 Source Steel Billet Main Caps....I now have 86 runs on my new 505" and so far absolutely no problems. I also have the 440 Source Aluminum Rocker Arms which hold their valve lash settings almost perfectly between each time I check the lash (which is about 25 runs between checking) (Comp Solid Lifter Cam).
I was hoping someone was using this one with some success.
I had a bit of cap walk with what I just pulled out.
All that was there were main studs at nearly 700 hp. No girdle or billet caps.
Thanks Mike
 
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If you wanna get into caps too the chenosworth piece is the best. But by the time you pay for the machine work to install caps and buy the caps with a girdle your heading into aftermarket block territory IMO. I used a Hughes on the 499 in my dad's dart. It was pretty much identical to the source girdle.
 
I have a muscle motors on my 451. It's the same as the Hughes 440 source. It has arp hardware.
 
You have the tightest, Most firm bottom end around, Mr Bobtile. Dont let anyone tell you otherwise.

No Homo.
 
You have the tightest, Most firm bottom end around, Mr Bobtile. Dont let anyone tell you otherwise.

No Homo.
Lmao
You're the best Habib!
 
I was hoping someone was using this one with some success.
I had a bit of cap walk with what I just pulled out.
All that was there were main studs at nearly 700 hp. No girdle or billet caps.
Thanks Mike
Man, had a stock stroke 440 with less than 11.5-1 showing signs of cap walk but it also had right at 300 passes with the rpm hitting 7300 in the traps. It was swinging heavy *** Hemi rods but at least the pistons were light. What about running aluminum caps to help absorb some of the shock loading?
 
Man, had a stock stroke 440 with less than 11.5-1 showing signs of cap walk but it also had right at 300 passes with the rpm hitting 7300 in the traps. It was swinging heavy *** Hemi rods but at least the pistons were light. What about running aluminum caps to help absorb some of the shock loading?
Mine is stock stroke 11.5:1 compression.
68-6900 through the traps.
Cap walk probably coincided with my retainer breaking in half.
Im thinking my rev limiter may have somehow malfunctioned.
When I do my burnout, im bouncing off the limiter... usually...
Thinking back to the last pass I made, I remember it being very smooth, meaning that I dont remember bouncing off the limiter.
When I staged, it was idling roughly but I thought it was the fuel pump issue that I have been having.
It may have been a fluke thing, but I plan on upping the horsepower now so I want to be safe.
I have a little over 200 passes on mine.
 
Man, had a stock stroke 440 with less than 11.5-1 showing signs of cap walk but it also had right at 300 passes with the rpm hitting 7300 in the traps. It was swinging heavy *** Hemi rods but at least the pistons were light. What about running aluminum caps to help absorb some of the shock loading?
You bring up another question that I have.
Steel or aluminum billet caps.
Aluminum for shock load or would steel be more stable?
 
You bring up another question that I have.
Steel or aluminum billet caps.
Aluminum for shock load or would steel be more stable?

Alum is the way to go on a race motor if your going to do caps. helps the blocks live because they absorb a lot of the shock. I've never ran alum caps on a bb mopar myself, a lot of guys swear by them though.
 
Hi Bob,

The original 440 block girdle originated in my racing days for Chrysler.
There was a reason Chrysler Super Stock and Stock engines made the power
they did and cleaned clock on the Chevy Ford guys.

A fellow factory sponsored friend of mine, teamed with Chrysler engineering
to develop a means to create maximum HP using a stock factory iron block
without cracking it. They found the proper tensile strength steel to dampen
the harmonics that split the block and the proper way to connect all the
girdle to the pan rails and mains.

That's how these old timers developed the power to beat everyone without
losing an engine. We did some crazy things to win in the 60-70 era but they
worked.

There was one crook out there I won't mention. He bought two of these
girdles off my friend who still holds the uncashed check for them.

The girdles were copied, as far as looks go. They had no clue about the type
steel used or the internal make up. These are the girdles you see on a few
websites out there. Just cheap knock offs.

I still access the original girdles right from the producer. These are the
real deal that get the job done. For the over 800hp guys add block cement.

We get them with bolts for $430 shipped in the US.

Let me know if I can help,

John
813-503-8069

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Seaman
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2016 1:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Website Inquiry from South East RT



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Interesting email I just received.
 
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