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New Bolts one by one?

trim

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Well.... almost hate to ask, as I'm sure the stupid label will be out, But, here goes.. I want to change all the visable bolts, Intake Man, lower head bolts, water pump etc.
If I take one at a time out and replace with new & torque, do you think this can cause a problem? Don't want to remove parts and have to re gasket.
Think it will work???
trim
 
All you can do is try and see. If it works, great. If not, then you know exactly which gaskets to replace.
 
Is there something wrong with the bolts that are there?
 
bolts

When I rebuilt my motor I replaced all the bolts with grade 8 gold bolts to match the orange. Home depot and a hardware store near my home had everything I needed. If you do 1 by 1 im sure your gaskets will stay together, assuming you dont over tighten of course. Just do 1 by 1 and im sure it will be good. Good Luck.
 
Is there something wrong with the bolts that are there?
This was exactly my thought. For why would you want, or need, to do this ? I can honestly say in 40 years this is something I've never done !
 
Yep, to make it look purrrdy. New 69 RR w/383 for me. The ext. re=paint is good, the interior is an 8+..... but the engine compartment was the pits. Removed the engine & tranny for a re-paint of the eng. compartment.... the engine has recently balanced and has excellent compression.... They just forgot to tidy up the the surroundings and I have detailed and painted the eng. and would like to replace the visible bolts with ARP polished stainless for looks.
Thanks all for responding, trim
 
No problem on the intake and accessories.

For the head bolts you should pay attention if the current bolts were torqued with oil on the threads or special grease, or?? including under the bolt head and try to duplicate the procedure on the new bolts. It may be best to change out all the bolts one by one, that way you have consistency.
 
I have replaced all my visible bolts with new stainless ones, just remember to use anti sieze, especially on alu or they can "cut" so you never get them out again. And if you can, use a tap to clear the threads first. Then you get the right torque.
And this can be done on head bolts too, for example BMW had to replace all the headbolts in a couple of years due to bad quality, the bolt heads snap of and the rest is history, just take them one by one and use a good calibrated torque wrench.
 

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Bolts holding down aluminum such as intakes should have washers under the bolt heads...hardened washers are best but a bare headed bolt is the worst thing to do to aluminum, grease or not, the head will cut into the aluminum.
 
I have replaced all my visible bolts with new stainless ones, just remember to use anti sieze, especially on alu or they can "cut" so you never get them out again. And if you can, use a tap to clear the threads first. Then you get the right torque.
And this can be done on head bolts too, for example BMW had to replace all the headbolts in a couple of years due to bad quality, the bolt heads snap of and the rest is history, just take them one by one and use a good calibrated torque wrench.
Hey man, do I see a plug wire separator that's made of metal near the distributor? You may want to reconsider using something that's non metallic on that if it is....
 
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