New fender in black primer ?

[Cranky]

Bought a new fender for my daughter's PT Cruiser and it's painted black. I assume this is a cheap primer? I don't have much experience with paint but have done some touch up work and redid a dash in an old pickup. The car still wears the original base/clear and am thinking of doing that on the fender too. How should I prep the new fender? Scuff it then shoot some epoxy primer and go from there? Yeah, the fender came from Taiwan...

 

[Propwash]

It's just a cheap E-coat I would imagine. It's not meant for primer or base medium to be laid on top of, but just to protect the metal from environment until being sold. You're right on track...strip it down, epoxy coat and then go from there.

 

[eldubb440]

sand it with 400 on a DA ........... if the primer is well adhered to the metal there is no need to remove it, break-thrus are ok, maybe even necessary to determine quality of adhesion......... then yes, a coat of quality primer and sand before paint ( i use epoxy for almost everything)

a production shop would probably get away with short cutting the prep..... i.e. red scotch pad, fast drying etch primer, paint

 

[Gpuller]

Grab some lacquer thinner and wipe it down. If the primer comes off you have to remove it all and epoxy prime it.

 

[eldubb440]

I'd like to ad that if the primer gets removed, I prefer to "scratch" the bare metal by hand with 120 or 180 grit prior to priming..... just as a little insurance for good adhesion

 

[super-bee_ski]

That is the "Metal Direct" primer
Prevents rust.
It isn't a bad thingy....

AMD sent me the trunk pan AND front valence for the 63 Polara with that on.

 

[Cranky]

Thanks guys!!

 

[chad]

I have been doing body work for years. I have never removed the primer, Just washed it with silicone/wax and grease remover then, run over it with the DA with some 320 grit, wipe it down again and shoot it with some PPG epoxy primer or what ever primer you choose to use... Never had a problem doing it this way, My Pops has been doing body work for 45 years and he's never had a problem doing it this way either.

 

[super-bee_ski]

That is what I did Chad, I actually scuffed it a bit.
But I didn't remove it.
Per the advice of my "body" man.

 

[chad]

Some times if I am getting into a seriously straight body job I will put some 220 on my hand board file and go over and block it quickly to find all the little marks and ripples (because we all know Taiwan stuff is perfect LOL) and make a mental note of them so I can fix or remember where they are when I am in the bodywork/blocking stages.