new member, new motor, new mopar, new questions.

[leadsledfan]

Hi i just joined up and was hoping you guys could lead me in the right direction. I bought a 1972 satellite a couple weeks ago, but soon traded it for a 1972 charger. The charger came with a 318 longblock, a 360 with headers, intake, etc.. and two smallblock 727's. But i wanted a 440, so a week later i bought a 1967 chrysler 300 with a 440/727. I brought the white whale to my garage, slapped in a battery and she started right up! So now my plan is to take the 727/440 and freshen them up and put them in my charger. so heres my questions.

How much of a headache is it to rebuild a bb 727? and what kit do you recommend?

also on the motor side, what brand of parts do you recommend, please try to remember that im 16, and work hard for every dollar i spend, so no $1000 gold plated water pumps. reasonable, reliable parts. heres what i was planning on replacing in the motor.

Water pump, high volume

oil pump- High volume

oil pan, aftermarket 7 qt. +

oil pickup tube

windage tray,

intake?

and possibly a mini starter, and newer style alternator.

so far the most reasonable parts i have found are from 440 source.com are there parts good? bad? Any info on other parts i should change, or what brand, or where to buy them is much appreciated.

Im new to the mopar addiction... and LOVIN it!!

 

[69 Runner]

Welcome. Doing a BB 727 is really no different than doing a SB 727. Yours, being from a C body, will probably have the 4 gear front planetary, making it a bit harder to break.
You don't need a special water pump. A "402" or Hemi pan will work. Milidon's windage tray is better than the O.E. one. You will need the proper pickup tube for each one. The Hemi one will require drilling and tapping the block (it's bigger). Intake should be matched to work with the cam, so without knowing what cam, it's kinda hard to say what intake.....except with a stock cam you can use something like a M1 dual plane.

 

[leadsledfan]

What cam/intake combo do you suggest? and can i use an aftermarket (mild) cam, with stock lifters, valves, rockers, etc?

also 440 source sellss a windage tray, milodon oil pan, oil pump, water pump, etc.. that seems inexspensive, but ive heard good things.. Is it all smoke? or are they good parts?

 

[q-ship]

Re-building the 727 is not difficult, but I suggest you invest in a video and book (e-bay) before you dig in, and plan on buying a couple of specialty tools.

You may have to change the governor for higher shift points as the C's shifted fairly early, and the torque converter will be much less that ideal.

As for the engine, are you planning a rebuild or just get it running good?

Is it a TNT, or a 350 HP engine?

As far as the parts you mentioned -- "Water pump, high volume" a total waste of money if the one on there is good. In no event do you want to go to a high volume as your pulleys will spin it far to fast to cool properly (assuming the 300 had A/C).

"oil pump- High volume". Waste of money. If your original is in good condition, use it, otherwise replace it with a new standard volume (about $45.00 from auto zone).

"oil pan, aftermarket 7 qt. +". Waste of money. As previously stated a baffled 402 pan will be more than adequate for anything less than a race built engine.

"oil pickup tube". The pan you get will dictate the pick-up tube you need to get. You can also clean out your stock tube with a cylinder brush if it fits the pan you chose ... I prefer disassembling, cleaning, and re-using the original as the new tubes, from any supplier, have a bunch of casting/cutting shrapnel in them that can break off and cause damage. Personally, I disassemble any new part and clean it up/deburr it before I use it

"windage tray". The 440 Source standard stroke tray is an excellent piece for the lowest price possible. Much better than the Mopar unit. My only recommendation would be to trim the oil pick-up opening so that it can be taken on/off without removing the pick-up. Very easy to do.

"intake?". I would postpone this till last, after you have everything else set up and running as the stock intake is pretty good, and depending on what cam - carb - hood clearance - performance goals - etc; issues you have, buying one now will probably be a 99% chance of making a mistake.

"and possibly a mini starter, and newer style alternator". A mini starter will gain you nothing if the stock one doesn't have clearance issues, and though I am a firm believer in upgraded charging systems, unless you are running electric fans and other high current upgrades, a higher amp alternator is unnecessary, and will only cause you
grief with the rest of your electrical system, with zero benefits.

You will at minimum need to replace the timing chain set, valve seals, and gaskets.

You will probably need a valve job, and if it's a 350 HP engine, you will need to replace the cam as the "standard" cam builds too much cylinder pressure for today’s pump fuel, and yet produces sub par performance.

Even cheap headers will be a noticeable performance improvement, plus the C body head pipes won't work in your B body.

I hope any of this is a help to you.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I will echo the other replies here that basically say keep it simple and use mostly stock parts. Do a few things before you take it out though:

Compression check. Should be around 150 PSI.
Install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to get more info. Would be nice to see 55 PSI at 2-3000 RPM - around 25-30 at idle. Install the 70 lb pressure relief spring. Easy to do since it's accessible from the out side of the engine!

You should upgrade the intake to a cast iron 68 - 70 440 piece from a 375 horse engine - GTX, R/T "L" code cars. Or the early 70's TQ with matching carb. Block off EGR. The TQ type will be almost free at swap meets. You can spend a few extra bucks and put on a STD performer or M1. The M1 looks like an aluminum copy of the factory iron 375 HP intake and I suspect there will be no performance difference between the two.

I imagine you will use the short block as is so don't go crazy with the cam. Edelbrock makes some nice cams designed for 8.5 - 9.0:1 CR. Performer series I believe.

A 67 440 will have (or should have) the best mass production head available for the big block, casting number 2780915, or commonly referred to as the "915" heads. You will need to freshen them up and install hard seats in the exhaust, and while that's going on have them put the larger 1.74" exhaust valves. I recommend pocket porting but unless you are good with a die grinder just stick to a good 3 angle valve job with back cut valves. There is a heavy duty stamped steel rocker arm available, so if your original ones are worn bad I'd get those. The iron adjustables are my first choice but they are pricey new but can be had used for around $150.00. 3/8" push rods aren't a bad idea either.

Basic 1-7/8" headers will be fine and may be cheaper than getting a set of factory hi-flow manifolds. Dual exhaust with 2.5" pipe will be fine as well.

Windage tray, water pump from an A/C car (six blade stamped steel impeller) and clutch fan are some cheap HP increasing mods.

A proper advance curve to optimize your engine is a must and will make a huge difference in performance. The factory electronic ignition setup will be just fine.

Best of luck and don't hesitate to ask questions!!

 

[leadsledfan]

That all makes sense, heres a few things ive found,

An edelbrock rpm manifold, and a torker manifold, which is better? I would like to replace mine as ive found a small crack in it that leaks coolant.

I think im gonna go with the 440 source windage tray, and aftermarket pan, its pretty inexspensive, and mine has a road rash leak.

Also whats the difference between 440 sources oil and water pump, and stock? for the extra dollars i would like higher flow if it works.

and i think im gonna leave the cam alone until i get everything else workin good.

Also what transmission rebuild kit do you guys suggest? msr? b and m?

thanks for all the help

 

[Deleted member 214]

Go with the Edelbrock RPM. It is a dual plane and will work a lot better with a stock or mild to moderate cam than a single plane Torker. The Torker works best on bigger cam high RPM motors and will lose you lower RPM horsepower and torque.