New Trans or Re-Case to Fit Big Block? And How Much?

[Evoking]

Hi guys,

I just learned the 68 Charger I was going to buy was originally a 318 car but now has a 360 in it. The problem is that while the tranny is a 727 and has the same internals it won't bolt up to a big block which I am planning to install if I get this car.

So the question is do I:
1) have the tranny re-cased/built with the other case that has the flange to fit.
2) Or do I buy the other trans?
3) And what would I budget for either option?

 

[brian6pac]

Take out the guts and put them in a BB case, that way you know what you got.

 

[66Satellite47]

Things to consider: what size BB, expected power level condition of existing internal parts, what year existing trans? The internals can be easily swapped. If you're expecting 450+ HP, I'd be sure to use both front & rear 4 pinion planetaries, 71-74 front drum & pump. Use the Turbo Action style conversion to use 5 clutches in the front drum. Use fresh seals & gaskets, and new clutches, (steels too if they show heat spots). Cost ???

 

[Shorthorse]

I'd vote for #2. I guess the first question is, are you going to do the work yourself? If you can, that's much better. If you have to pay to have it done, you'll probably end up with more labor costs than a simple rebuild on a single unit. Having a fresh, known transmission is always a plus. Regardless, rebuild with new parts as already suggested. As far as cost, a budget deal would be around $200 with a good rebuild kit with bands plus the other BB used transmission core. But, once you start looking through the catalogs, you know how that goes. Don't be too cheap or you might be doing it again. Certainly consider what 66Satellite47 said, planetaries, pump, maybe a bolt-in sprag, spring & roller kit. The most important thing, check the condition of your drums carefully.
From John Cope at CRT Transmissions.
Do I need a billet steel drum for the street? As most of us Mopar guys know, if a sprag fails the front drum can spin up to 2.2 times the engine RPMs. The stock drum can NOT withstand that rpm and can explode without warning. We at CRT recommend installing a billet steel drum on any race car or any street car making over 500 HP.

 

[cryplydog]

I would keep your 727 and throw it on the "pile" or sell it. BB 727's are a fairly easy find and reasonable around this neck of the woods anyway, and performance rebuilds ain't that big of a deal if you can do it yourself and the cost is the same basically for either. I personally would start with fresh rebuild and converter. Good luck

 

[mopar 3 B]

Unless you have rebuilt 727's before and know what parts will interchange and what will not i am with #5.

 

[Evoking]

Thanks guys. I will go with a newly re-built one. What do you think of this outfit and their race options. Regarding power, I plan on putting in a 500-550hp engine.

http://www.727specialist.com/

 

[Shorthorse]

Thanks guys. I will go with a newly re-built one. What do you think of this outfit and their race options. Regarding power, I plan on putting in a 500-550hp engine.

http://www.727specialist.com/

I was looking at their base unit as compared to CRT and A&A base units. There's some major differences. Jegs and Summit sell several different name brands such as TCI, B&M and Hughes. The shipping won't be cheap. I've been lucky enough to be able to build my transmissions with the help of some very knowledgeable friends so I can't speak to any of these store bought units. Lots of guys I race with get their parts from or have CRT or A&A transmissions. Your profile says you're in Texas. You might try to check on some reputable builders in your area first.