On a carbureted engine "fogger" = "direct port". There's actually 2 ways to "direct port". A "Fogger" system (NOS brand) uses the "Y" where fuel/nitrous are mixed inside the injector tip. The "old school" "direct port" had two separate nozzles (one for fuel & one for nitrous) installed into each intake port. That's what is shown in the hidden (under manifold) 340 6bbl. setup. I thought about this and you can't really hide that type of system on a 440 6bbl. because you can actually see under the intake. A disadvantage of those is that those lines get splashed with hot oil which might boil some fuel in the lines & make you run lean.
On newer port injected fuel injected motors, NOS has a system called a "Noszzle" or something like that. For that one, you pull out your fuel injectors, insert the "noszzles" and then plug your injectors back into those "noszzles".... basically a "fuel injector spacer" that feeds in the nitrous (& fuel?) right below the fuel injectors.
The NOS 6bbl. cheater plate system in the other picture comes with 150, 200 & 250 hp jets. You could tune it down to 100 if you wanted. I personally think that's the way you should go. You can definitely build your own. Even though the NOS 6bbl. system is obsolete, you can still buy the identical 2 bbl. plates. All you'd need is two of those plates (front/rear), two "cheater" sized solenoids and a whole bunch of tubing & fittings.
On a related note, there's a clearance problem with the standard NOS fittings between the center/rear carburetor, so those plates won't bolt up "as is" to the center carb. I'm sure you could figure out how to get around that issue. I've often thought about adding another nitrous plate (instead of just a carb spacer) to the center carburetor to give a second stage of nitrous & still maintain the hood-to-air cleaner clearance needed for an air grabber.
Speaking of which.....I had to notch the bottom of my air grabber scoop, passenger side (not very visible) so the air grabber lid would close using the NOS setup. I think the plates/spacers are just 1" or 3/4" thick, but it's REALLY tight in there. Obviously, this is not an issue with a power bulge hood.
Good to know I can piece one together, I'd probably ask whatever company I buy from for help. Thanks also for being specific with proper terminology, it helps my newbie research.
