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Nitrous

bandit

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Bought a nitrous system this week. 125hp fixed shot.

What do you do if the nitrous solenoid happens to stick open on a run? Is it ok to just just turn off the car to kill it if you cannot get to the bottle? How long before damage sets in if it keeps spraying with the fuel solenoid closed and carb not at WOT? (imagining when i let off gas and kill n20 system after an acceleration and I feel nitrous still spraying)

Similar to above but what happens if you are at WOT and hit the N20 system and the fuel solenoid does not open and you only get nitrous?

I guess what I am asking is what will you hear, what will the car do and what do you do to correct or minimize damage in both the cases?

No reason to believe anything is wrong with my solenoids, just want to be prepared on what to do if something happens.
 
I'll tell you what happens when you're at WOT and the gasoline solenois sticks closed, or doesn't open,

The nitrous needs that extra fuel for combustion. If there is no "extra fuel", the piston becomes the

"extra fuel"!!!!! Once you burn through that extra fuel supply, the crankcase fills with that mixture

and when the spark plug for that cylinder fires, KABOOM! Oil pan and contents on the street or strip!

There won't be alot of happy people around after that. Don't ask me how I know this interesting factoid!
 
I hope you are going to wire the kit to a WOT switch, available lots of places. That will only allow the system to come on when intended. I also don't know where you are mounting the bottle but I see a lot of people put a manual shut OFF valve in the N2O feed line. Good luck with the kit, should put you back in the seat:headbang:

Mark
 
make sure to wire everything thru relays also, so it won't spike or over tax your batteries & charging system, the solenoids are basically "like" a dead short & draw allot of energy/battery power

there's a way you can use another solenoid inline as a safety feature,
wired to on/open when the N20 is armed {manual override/arming switch} & if you shut it off,
it will stop all the flow of electricity to the solenoids &/or fuel & N20,
if you use one in each the dedicated fuel & dedicated N20 lines,
incase of catastrophic or solenoid failure/operation...

you can wire the solenoids thru a hop switch, for oil pressure &/or fuel pressure,
if it's too low, it won't allow the fuel/N20 solenoids to operate...

I'd highly suggest buy a few books on the subject, educate yourself 1st
there's allot of ways to make it safer,
electronic & manually operated valves,
IMHFO it's not really a big problem either,
if you take the proper steps/safety measures...

I raced using 3 kits of various sizes/styles/hp ranges & had it on many different cars with it, single & multiple kits
for nearly 20 years & I never had a N20 solenoid complete failure, they rarely stick wide open either
{not that they can't, but they are a electronic magnetic valve with a spring & a seal to close them of when power is taken away} I have seen guys blow up a bunch of stuff using cheap inferior crap & bad wiring especially...
I've had some solenoids seep & leak after shutting off or when just arming them, that had got some trash in the seal from trash in the fuel or from N20 when the bottles were filled, by the wrong people or dirty bottles, from moisture...

just make sure everything is filtered before the solenoids, that will help with the debris...

there are better solenoids too,
some of these cheaper "kits" have garbage solenoids,
some have a better seal than others,
{the cheaper the kit the crappier the solenoids you can bank on that}
if it's going to be used allot the seals need to be serviced,
some are & some aren't serviceable/re-buildable...

not all solenoids are created equal,
some have smaller or larger orifices,
you can source them {solenoids} from other places, than just a N20 suppliers
some of the better ones have Teflon seals,
some have a plastic seal,
some older ones had synthetic rubber/neoprene {??} seals
some have a metal to metal seal/gate...

there are companies that also sell electronic on/off bottle supply valves too...

I haven't run any N20 since 2007,
I'm sure some stuff is out there thou, probably way better than what I had...

Google search is your friend, think outside the box...
 
I had my nitrous solenoid stick open on my wet kit in my efi mustang it was back in the day and was a 10,000 rpm brand plate kit. it torched my head gasket but since I had a helmet on and was next to a open headered 55 chevy I couldnt hear **** but I did feel it nose over and let off. It probably would have just popped the head gasket at that point but I got back into it and it not only ate the top ring land of my forged piston but it also at through the chamber of my steel heads and my block.

The car still ran, not well and I limped it home 37 miles before I tore it apart.

Bottom line is thats what happen when your nitrous solenoid sticks open if you arent paying attention lol
 
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