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No Dash Lights

iamjmg

iamjmg

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8:19 AM
Joined
Nov 25, 2014
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Location
Grand Bay AL
New Light switch, sanded all grounding spots added a ground wire off the light switch, direct wired lights to water temp & oil pressure gauge they work, No dash or console shifter light. Just finished rebuild, car sat outside for 15 yrs and half apart when I brought the car home, don't know if they worked before. installed all new bulbs C pillar and courtesy lamps in console work. parking and headlights work, backup lights work all lights work except instruments and console gear position light do not. I've looked at everything I can think of but I'm not an electrician. HELP cause I don't have a lot of hair left.
 
iamjmg said:
New Light switch, sanded all grounding spots added a ground wire off the light switch, direct wired lights to water temp & oil pressure gauge they work, No dash or console shifter light. Just finished rebuild, car sat outside for 15 yrs and half apart when I brought the car home, don't know if they worked before. installed all new bulbs C pillar and courtesy lamps in console work. parking and headlights work, backup lights work all lights work except instruments and console gear position light do not. I've looked at everything I can think of but I'm not an electrician. HELP cause I don't have a lot of hair left.
Click to expand...
Do you mean that the Thumbwheel switch is new?
 
ok found out this car had a short in the light circuit before I took it home. Fuse was blown replaced fuse and it blew right away. checked the circuit it's running 12 volts thru it with every thing off. I have replaced every harness I could buy during rebuild so it has about 95 percent new wiring. the only light circuit I didn't replace was emergency brake light, console lights and that one checks good, radio. I'm checking the connections behind the lt. kick panel next.
 
iamjmg said:
ok found out this car had a short in the light circuit before I took it home. Fuse was blown replaced fuse and it blew right away. checked the circuit it's running 12 volts thru it with every thing off. I have replaced every harness I could buy during rebuild so it has about 95 percent new wiring. the only light circuit I didn't replace was emergency brake light, console lights and that one checks good, radio. I'm checking the connections behind the lt. kick panel next.
Click to expand...
You obviously have a direct short to ground - verses an open. Start unplugging stuff until the fuse doesn't blow. each headlight, dimmer switch, headlight switch, steering column wires. That way you can eliminate a lot of stuff.
 
the instrument lamps are a separate circuit and does not include the headlamps,tail lamps ,dome and console lamps.
 
You have a short in your instrument light circuit. The first place I would look is in the Console gear shifter light wiring. It is the only wire that is not in the gauge panel. Probably shorted right at the shifter or maybe between the dash and shifter. If not, the short is under the dash somewhere. Good luck. Persistence will prevail.
 
Not sure if this could be on course with your problem, but I spent several hours last weekend refurbishing the fuse block in my '63 Fury after having some weird electrical things going on. My dash installed tachometer needle started bouncing around and when I turned my radio on it cut out and tach died. My brake and blinker lights would occasionally go out and a slight adj to the fuse block would fix the problem. Come to find the hot wire spade burned through adjacent fuse wires and at some point it got pretty hot with melted insulation. So removed wires and did a little splicing and taping resetting the wires so they would not touch each other. As I putzed with this I had to wonder with all of the room under the dash why the Plymouth boys designed it this way...with this tiny block with connectors next to each other and an exposed spade connector on the hot. I have found backyard mechanic electrical wiring work done, no surprise given the car was near 30 years old when I bought it from stereo install and maybe other stuff. Anyway these issues never blew out fuses! But could have started a fire! Got lucky here...Ron H.
 
If I can jump on this post does anyone have detail on the 2nd wire connection for the negative battery cable? The wire had been cut off leaving about 5 inches of the wire remaining from the cable and would like to make the correct reconnection of this wire. I'm not finding anything in the area as to where this wire would have been connected at one time. I assume to the frame nearby near radiator for added grounding. I just developed a major over charging issue and suspect it could be the battery as my 1st check anyway. I recently took the batt tray and holder out bead blasted and repainted. My car is a '63 Fury 318. Thanks.
 
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