"No hose clamps allowed on NHRA-accepted fuel lines."

[HT413]

That's what the rule states, so what's the right way to connect a 3/8" aluminum fuel line to the sending unit other than using a hose barb adaptor and a short piece of flexible fuel line and hose clamps?

I'm trying to get my car track legal for this coming season, been soaking up as much info from you guys as possible but this one has me stumped.

Also, regarding brake lines, rules state all brake lines must be toward the outside side of the frame rails near the bell housing or protected by steel tubing. OEM location in my 69 belvedere is toward the inside side of the frame rail (well, that's how mine is plumbed and i think it's OEM location). So do i have to re-plumb my brake lines to pass tech?

thanks.

 

[383man]

Well I dont know as I have uses hose clamps on my fuel lines since the 70's and still do. I have some where my aluminum line hookes to the braided fuel line up front. They have never said anything to me. Seems being married I was always tight on cash so I dont have all the fancy fittings but I better find out if I have to get them. Ron

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah. That's a new one on me. Try duct tape and see what they say.

 

[HT413]

Thanks, Ron and Rusty, I was hoping to hear from you guys. just looking online, it's been in every rulebook from 2009 to 2013, so i dunno, maybe it's just not something that's enforced on OEM style fuel tanks?

Like you said, I'm married with 2 young kids and I really dont have the cash to blow on $15 per fitting either and would rather spend it on the important stuff.

For what it's worth, here's the text from 2012 rulebook:


Section 20: General Regulations

page 5, 1:5 Fuel Lines


All non-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data recorder lines) must be metallic, steel braided, or NHRA-accepted “woven or woven-pushlock.” A maximum of 12 inches total (front to rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for connection purposes only; individual injector nozzle and motorcycle fuel lines are excluded. Fuel lines (except steel braided lines) in the flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16-inch length of steel tubing, 1/8-inch-minimum wall thickness, securely mounted as a protection against fuel-line rupture. Fuel lines may not be routed in the driveshaft tunnel. It is mandatory that fuel lines passing supercharger drive belts be steel braided, NHRA-accepted woven or woven-pushlock, or be enclosed in protective steel tubing. A current list of NHRA-accepted woven or woven-pushlock fuel lines is available on NHRARacer.com. All NHRA-accepted fuel lines must use ends that are specifically designed for the type of fuel line being used. No hose clamps allowed on NHRA-accepted fuel lines.

 

[RustyRatRod]

They COULD mean no hose clamps on the "metallic, steel braided, or NHRA-accepted “woven or woven-pushlock" lines and they probably allow them on the "non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for connection purposes only". Surely that's what they mean. Although I can see your frustration.

 

[moparpoor]

Your fine with rubber hose and hose clamps.Just make sure it is neat and clean.I have never seen a stock body/chassis have issues with brake lines or fuel lines being in stock position.Now once you start pushing 9sec range they begin to look at things closer.

 

[Budnicks]

NHRA tech inspection

when you start altering the fuel tank/Cell, seats, belts, cage/roll bar, firewall, floors, trunk, battery location, suspension, tunnel or tubs & or add slick, you will fall under a completely different set of rules... there is also a no fuel line or brake line across the firewall rule too, but it's rarely enforced... as soon as you go faster than 11.50 et, or alter the body floorpans/firewall/trunk/tubs/Cell/battery location, etc., they will look over the car with a different criteria & rules, much stricter & it really depends on the tracks tech guys & how far they want to take the interpretation of some of the rules... at a NHRA National or Sanctioned Points Event, it's allot stiffer rules & tech... good luck

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

best way is to use a tube nut to an fitting to braided hose to carb imo thats what i did in my 63 plymouth.

 

[W8avenger]

I use keystone clamps instead of hose clamps and never had a tech issue.

 

[furyus]

If you're not running at an N H R A track, they're not very strict. Bradenton race track doesn't even tech you. They just have you sign a waiver. Don't even look for an over flow bottle.

 

[WAYNES WORLD]

They COULD mean no hose clamps on the "metallic, steel braided, or NHRA-accepted “woven or woven-pushlock" lines and they probably allow them on the "non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for connection purposes only". Surely that's what they mean. Although I can see your frustration.

Yes, what he said. No hose clamps on the braided lines.
Wayne

 

[Dako]

From what you posted:

"...from 2012 rulebook: Section 20: General Regulations page 5, 1:5 Fuel Lines"


I would think the 1st part, "All non-OEM fuel lines", covers you. If you are basically running an OEM set-up (even if you went from 5/16 to 3/8) you would be okay. At least that's the defense I would start with if your set-up gets questioned.

 

[Longroof]

With NHRA tech I have found the best strategy is to ask for forgiveness rather than permission. ... usually they will let you run and ask that you fix it before coming back... and often times it is just a suggestion. .. and not a valid one... I have heard some really dumb "suggestions" but you just have to smile and listen politely. ...

Don't get me wrong I am all for having a safe car and not being the cause of an accident for others but there is a point where it is just ridiculous.

 

[6T5]

I just got into this myself. Here's what I determined.

-Your sending unit line is going to fall under the wording "...including gauge and/or data recorder lines...". so it will have to be metallic, steel braided or accepted woven pushlock.

-That being said, the cheapest NHRA approved rubber woven type hose is Summit Twist-Tite. A ten foot chunk is about $25.00. A push-in AN "Twist-Tite" fitting is a few more bucks. (NHRA just release a recent list of approved hoses last month...Google it to read)

-Go to hardware store, get a compression sleeve (crush ferrule ) fitting to clamp on the aluminum line and adapt to the AN. Summitt has them too, in aluminum.

-So now you have----Aluminum line / brass crush sleeve adapter / AN flair / Summitt push-on hose / sending unit.


-The rule wording about "12 inches total for connection..." means plain old rubber gas hose to jump over to the carburetor inlet nipple.

-The no hose clamp wording means no hose clamping braided stainless (or the new "NHRA accepted woven-pushlock..." type rubber hose).

NOW HERE'S the kicker....... The Summitt Twist-Tite actually says "Thermold Flex-Tite" on the hose when you get it. It is a reboxed product. It doesn't say Summit, Twist-Tite, NHRA, or even have the Summit part number on it.........and it looks just exactly like black, shiney rubber gas hose that you get at the lawnmower shop.

A tech inspector could certainly say, "What is that cheap crap you got on there son?"
You reply, " Well sir that's the new Summit Twist-Tite NHRA approved woven pushlock fuel line".
Tech guy says, "Hell if it is and I can prove it boy. It says "Thermold", what is Thermold anyway son?"


Summit will not supply any documentation that "Thermold" is actually thier "Summit" hose that is NHRA approved..........I called every Summit department for a week and all I got was a copy of my sales receipt. They do understand the dilema....just won't do anything.

ALL THAT SAID, if you just need a foot of hose to meet the rules I'll give you some, just PM me.....I got extra.

I agree with Longroof...the rules are idiotic in some cases.....no wonder hobby racers are dropping out (or outlaw tracks are growing)