No oil pressure

[apostle228]

So, I have a problem. My 318 Satellite was running great. Perfect in fact. I took her for a spin, then I came home. That night I started the car one more time because a neighbor wanted to see. Cool, a chance for me to show her off! Well... I fire up the engine and SHE SOUNDS LIKE A DIESEL. Knocking real bad. I immediately shut it off... Cuss for a few minutes, then figure well, lets check my oil pressure real fast. So I start the engine real quick, no oil pressure, 0PSI, and knocking still. I havnt started it again since.

Now I think the most obvious choice would be to go after the oil pump first, i'll try and pick up a priming rod tomorrow and spin the pump with the filter off, see if anything comes out... Other than that, the only thing I can think it could be would be a bent rod and thrown liter which I really hope is not the case... I would love to just have the relief valve or spring stuck on the pump or something and I can just replace the pump and call it a day. Anything else I should check?

 

[pturner]

don't want to come off as a smart arse, but is there oil in the pan or on the dip stick?
just thinking, hole in the pan, oil gone? maybe you have already done this.
thanks
PT in Tennessee

 

[khryslerkid]

Yes, you can try using a priming rod but dont remove the filter. Watch your gauge instead. Wait, the dizzy is in the back.. How do you prime a 318 anyway? Internal pump?

Pressure valves are notorious for sticking too. Not familiar with the 318 pump but on a BB you can remove the valve externally. You can remove the plug, remove the valve and spring and ball. Inspect for dirt and wear...

 

[apostle228]

don't want to come off as a smart arse, but is there oil in the pan or on the dip stick?
just thinking, hole in the pan, oil gone? maybe you have already done this.
thanks
PT in Tennessee

Haha, yes there is oil. Right at the max line too.

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Yes, you can try using a priming rod but dont remove the filter. Watch your gauge instead. Wait, the dizzy is in the back.. How do you prime a 318 anyway? Internal pump?

Pressure valves are notorious for sticking too. Not familiar with the 318 pump but on a BB you can remove the valve externally. You can remove the plug, remove the valve and spring and ball. Inspect for dirt and wear...

Yes the pump is internal. In the oil pan... If thats what you mean. Also my gauge is electric, how is it going to show oil pressure with the car off? I'll have to pull the filter if i'm going to spin the pump with the priming tool... thats no biggie, and the filter is the first thing after the pump so if oil spurts out, the pump is good. The valve cant be removed externally on the small blocks I dont think, I am pretty sure I have to drop the oil pan to check that... Anyone know for sure though?

 

[benno440]

sounds like oil pump went bad and now thrown a rod bearing due to the knock. to confirm is it a loud knocking or a valve rattle? if only rattle hopefully not alot of damage yet.
this would be my first guess, change the oil pump or clean it out if still okay

 

[Daves69]

Oil pump relief stuck wide open (don't reset and use again) or loose rotor, broken intermediate shaft drive hex, cracked or loose oil pickup tube, lifter out of bore

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

could be several things as mentioned, could also be something as simple as the filter. does it have the orange can of death on it? if you turn the key to on your elec gauge will read while you run the priming tool. if you end up pulling the pan it would be crazy not to inspect the bearings.

 

[apostle228]

sounds like oil pump went bad and now thrown a rod bearing due to the knock. to confirm is it a loud knocking or a valve rattle? if only rattle hopefully not alot of damage yet.
this would be my first guess, change the oil pump or clean it out if still okay

It isnt a loud knocking, only a lot of rattle... Sounds like a diesel basically :\ So I really hope theres no serious damage yet...

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could be several things as mentioned, could also be something as simple as the filter. does it have the orange can of death on it? if you turn the key to on your elec gauge will read while you run the priming tool. if you end up pulling the pan it would be crazy not to inspect the bearings.

Shamefully, it does have a fram... On my last oil change, they didnt have any of the Wix filters for my car in stock so I just grabbed the fram... Hopefully that isnt what caused this issue, or i'm gonna be kicking myself for not checking another store for a Wix filter...

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I went to all the local auto parts stores yesterday and none of them have the oil priming rod for my car in stock... They'd all have to special order it. Unfortunately I am in the military, and I have to leave for a month on Monday, so it looks like this issue will have to be worked on when I get back. Ugh. I was really hoping to at least have a diagnosis on her before I had to leave. Oh well... I will revive this thread when I am back and let you all know what it turned out to be.

 

[Daves69]

All it is is a 5/16" allen (hex) welded on or pressed into a round shaft.

 

[old_skool]

Hopefully it's not knocking, or the damage is done, and the cheap frams don't have the return valve in their filters needed by most Chrysler products, so I wouldn't trust any of them.

 

[apostle228]

All it is is a 5/16" allen (hex) welded on or pressed into a round shaft.

And while I COULD make that myself, I do have a MIG machine and a 5/16" allen wrench, I have learned the hard way too many times about making my own tools or not using the "correct" tool for the job... I dont risk it anymore. Had too much headache with that stuff in my life ha.

 

[AMX364]

When you prime with a drill, you will hear the difference when the pump is working and will really slow down your drill. Be sure to run drill in correct rotation for your motor. My tool for the small block mopars is homemade.

 

[apostle228]

When you prime with a drill, you will hear the difference when the pump is working and will really slow down your drill. Be sure to run drill in correct rotation for your motor. My tool for the small block mopars is homemade.

You wouldn't happen to know off the top of your head which direction that is would you?

 

[AMX364]

I looked it up as clockwise for SB Mopar.

 

[HT413]

I looked it up as clockwise for SB Mopar.

Yep. Ccw for bb, cw for sb

 

[apostle228]

Well. Time for an update on this thread... I finally was able to troubleshoot, I pulled the intermediate shaft and sure as shot, it's sheared. SO, here's my next questions....is there any way to get the sheared portion out without dropping the oil pan and pulling the pump? My magnet tool wouldn't fit in there, any ideas? Or should I just go ahead and pull the oil pan? Could a seized pump or something along those lines have caused this?

 

[WP29440SE]

I would not think twice about dropping the pan and installing a new oil pump. that's probably why it broke in the first place. I would dump the oil and filter for new stuff

hopefully , there is no other damage

 

[apostle228]

That was my thought exactly, that perhaps the oil pump seized and caused the shaft to break. Okay, I'll go ahead and replace the pump and the shaft. Should I go with the high volume pump, since I'm replacing it anyway?

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That was my thought exactly, that perhaps the oil pump seized and caused the shaft to break. Okay, I'll go ahead and replace the pump and the shaft. Should I go with the high volume pump, since I'm replacing it anyway?

 

[coloradodave]

If it's a stock or mildly built motor there's no need or anything to be gained by using a high volume or high pressure pump. Your local NAPA store should have just what you need.

 

[apostle228]

If it's a stock or mildly built motor there's no need or anything to be gained by using a high volume or high pressure pump. Your local NAPA store should have just what you need.

I wound up going with the high volume. It was the same price so i figured why not. It's only gonna help not hurt it if anything