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No power to stop lamp switch.

Doug Larsson

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My buddy told me I had no brake lights I checked the obvious all the lights worked in the back. I figured it was the stop lamp switch so I replaced it still no brake lights. I checked power in the connectors with a test light and still nothing. I replaced all the fuses on the left hand side 1,2,3 and 4.
I traced the wires as far as I could go up to the hazard flasher they work no power to the ciggerette lighter also. I'm at a stand still can't think straight any more. If any one can help me I'd appreciate it.
Thank you Doug.

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My buddy told me I had no brake lights I checked the obvious all the lights worked in the back. I figured it was the stop lamp switch so I replaced it still no brake lights. I checked power in the connectors with a test light and still nothing. I replaced all the fuses on the left hand side 1,2,3 and 4.
I traced the wires as far as I could go up to the hazard flasher they work no power to the ciggerette lighter also. I'm at a stand still can't think straight any more. If any one can help me I'd appreciate it.
Thank you Doug.

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The switch you see is the old one I haven't installed it on to the bracket I just have it plugged in
 
I think the power comes from the turn signal switch, I may be wrong though. What kind of car is it?
 
Two wires go to the brake light switch. One of them, when the key is on, should be hot.
You might check that...if no power, check where the wire gets it's feed from. One wire, maybe the white, is power, the other goes to your tail lights.
 
Two wires go to the brake light switch. One of them, when the key is on, should be hot.
You might check that...if no power, check where the wire gets it's feed from. One wire, maybe the white, is power, the other goes to your tail lights.
Theoretically I would think when you turn the key to the on position with the switch connected but not depressed the brake lights should come on until you push it up. I had brake lights when I changed out my brake booster and master cylinder and the only wires i played with were the ones I rewired and none of them come into play with that switch as far as I can see.
 
Yes, Doug, your right. But, going by your description, either the switch is bad, or no power to the switch.
That's why I suggested making sure your getting power to the switch.

I had put a 'new' brake light switch on mine...and it didn't work...switch was bad. Dug out my old (original) switch, mounted it, and works great. Good 'ole foreign made junk.
 
Yes, Doug, your right. But, going by your description, either the switch is bad, or no power to the switch.
That's why I suggested making sure your getting power to the switch.
I had put a 'new' brake light switch on mine...and it didn't work...switch was bad. Dug out my old (original) switch, mounted it, and works great. Good 'ole foreign made junk.
I'll check that again and make sure thank you.
 
If it's not that switch, it's in the turn signal switch behind the steering wheel. The brakes get wired through there. When correcting my situation, I cleaned the contacts and it has worked fine since.
Jim
That's gonna suck if I have to do that grrt.
 
Looking at the schematic you may want to check your column harness connections, saw a 70 schematic that shows the break light switch is for the ground, not power...

underdash_rallye73a.gif underdash_rallye73b.gif Complete Wiring Diagram for 1970 Dodge Charger RT SE and 50.jpg
 
Don't freak out. I've had this happen to me many years ago when I was a broke teenager (I'm still broke, just older now). I don't recommend you leave it this way, but this will allow you to safely drive the car....... run a hot wire to the brake light switch.

The brake lights should work all the time, even with the key not in the ignition. I believe the original hot wire is the pink one (it's pink on my '70 anyway). I ran a wire straight from the battery to the terminal that the pink wire normally goes to and my brake lights worked. Looking back, I should have AT LEAST put a fuse in the wire. I've got my dash all re-wired now, but that worked for about 5 yrs. for me.
 
This is the power route:

Fuse box ( batt power so allways hot )
Pink wire at brake pedal
Pedal switch
White wire at brake pedal
White wire at turning switch
Turning switch
Dark green and brown coming out from turning switch ( if turning switch on rest position )
Same colors up to tail lights, one to each side

Turning switch changes the source coming from white wire to rear lights depending of function selected. If left side is activated, just right side gets the power from white wire and backwards. Turning flasher feeds the turning switch throught red wire to it feeding the side selected.

If hazzards are selected, no one side gets the power from white wire coming from brake pedal switch, but pink wire which comes from hazzard flasher
 
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I found the problem the white wire coming from the column into the connector had backed out I traced it with my test light and found it. I pushed it back in and now I have brake light's. I really need to get rid of this old wiring and up grade it. Thank you every one for your help I was losing my sanity trying to figure this out you guys are awesome .
 
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