No spark at ignition switch

[c_callen]

So I just swapped in an msd rtr setup on my polara and have it running without any problems. However it now has an intermittent issue where I completely lose all power when it's shut off. As if the battery was not in the car, no some lights, headlights, horn, and dead under the hood. I've shot wores and have power everywhere I need it, except st the ignition switch. Where it should be constant hot, I have nothing. I can run a jumper of the battery straight to the ignition and it starts and runs like a dream, no issues. I'm thinking I lost the starter relay. Any ideas?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Your post is a little confusing to me. If I'm reading it correctly, you don't have power at the ignition switch, but if you "hot wire" the ignition, it starts.

Just thinking out loud here..... To me, that sounds like the blue wire coming through the bulkhead disconnect going to ballast resistor (or your MSD box now) doesn't have power. That could be the ignition switch itself. Have you tried wiggling the key when it cuts off and/or tried to re-start it after it cuts off?

If you can "hot wire" it and is starts, then I "think" the starter relay is good. I'd check the connection at the bulkhead disconnect (blue wire) and then see if I could diagnose the starter switch itself using the wires from the bigger multi-plug connector at the bottom of the steering column. Does power go in? Does power come out?

 

[c_callen]

I'll look around some more and try that. Power is not present coming into the ignition switch but if I runs hot wire to the input straight off the battery it comes out and operates just fine. I'm losing it somewhere between the battery and the ignition switch

 

[Ski 61701]

Are you still using oem ammeter? If so that might be on the way out. Just about everything runs through the ammeter. So if that is failing or has failed you might want to bypass it. I just went through this, pretty much nothing worked but the clock. Bypassed the gauge put a voltmeter in and all is good now.

 

[Frank Mopar]

Bad connection in the bulkhead connector

 

[71newp]

Bad connection in the bulkhead connector

How does a person check for a bad connection at the bulkhead connector?
Thanks

 

[Frank Mopar]

Unplug it and look in there you will see black marks or melted plastic

 

[Dennis H]

Carefully remove all banks being careful to not break the ears. Spray with electrical contact cleaner. Profusely. Reinstall. Mine ran black with grime. Used half a can til it ran clear. Solved my similar intermittent issue.

 

[Billccm]

Carefully remove all banks being careful to not break the ears. Spray with electrical contact cleaner. Profusely. Reinstall. Mine ran black with grime. Used half a can til it ran clear. Solved my similar intermittent issue.

Good advice, but I'll add to use DeOxIt as the cleaner. This stuff not only cleans electrical contacts, but adds a protection against any future corrision. I say it again, I could write a book on what I have fixed with DeOxIt. You can get it on eBay at the best prices.

 

[Dennis H]

Good advice, but I'll add to use DeOxIt as the cleaner. This stuff not only cleans electrical contacts, but adds a protection against any future corrision. I say it again, I could write a book on what I have fixed with DeOxIt. You can get it on eBay at the best prices.

DeOxIt has about a dozen product variations available on Amazon. Large, small, spray, and a cleaner. Which specific purchase do you use and recommend? Lots of choices. I'll plan to use it on the Bulkhead connectors.

 

[Billccm]

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=262463268105&alt=web

I use the basic 99% of the time. The fader lube is good for controls and motors after a good deoxit cleaning.

 

[Dennis H]

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=262463268105&alt=web

I use the basic 99% of the time. The fader lube is good for controls and motors after a good deoxit cleaning.

Thanks Bill.