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No turnsignals

Ingemar Viklund

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So, all of the sudden I have no turnsignals working. I do have working rears brakelights, headlights and parklights, flashers all four sides and interior lights.
Bulbs look good and fuses all good. Relay problem?
 
So, all of the sudden I have no turnsignals working. I do have working rears brakelights, headlights and parklights, flashers all four sides and interior lights.
Bulbs look good and fuses all good. Relay problem?
IMO.....the origional flasher, I believe was made by Tung-Sol (?), was round and was a bi-metallic device. After so many 1000's of clicks they just wear out. I use to replace the origional unit with one made by SIGNAL STAT......a plug in replacement....superior, but may be difficult to find. Just a thought......
BOB RENTON
 
So I replaced the turn signal relay and everything worked..for a couple of hours. As for now, the turn signals come's and goes. Sometimes work, sometimes don't. Same thing with the emergency flasher. Sometimes they work correctly, sometimes they just flash in the rear.
 
What is a "turn signal relay?" The switch in the column?
 
Relay is not the propper name for it. There is no relays into the turning and hazzard systems.

to the OP… what year are we talking about?.

by the description having ocasionally hazzards just in rears… could it be 68/69?
 
IMHO everything points out to a steering column switch malfunction.

As far I know repros are available for 68/69s? But honestly I would try first the canceling cam replacement first. The canceling cam piece carries all the contacts throught the signal is routed like a matrix, handling where the input and output signals are distributed. It gets contact points which get worn with years of use. Turning switch side get points too, but canceling cam restores partially the contact surface, and since these cars use to be not anywhere daily drivers, the canceling cam replacement could be enough To bring in to life the turning switch assembly for many years more.

The flashers work as far the get the bulbs requesting the load. This makes to get heat and cold the bimetallic inside. If the switch doesn’t send the signal up to the bulbs, the load won’t be requested to make the flasher work heating the bimetallic built into.

You can in fact bypass the switch, jumping out the wires down the column. Red with light green, red with tan… these are fronts (L and R) and will make to blink the turning.

I know by memory the 70s and lates system, but can’t recall right now the 68/69. I know the hazzard flasher on them is routed first to the switch on cluster then to column, while 70s are a full system wired into the column. This makes you can get brake lights on 68/69 with hazzards on, but not on 70 and lates.

Would need to recheck the 68/69 diagram to guide you on a full wire bypass check to confirm where is the fail. I think brakes light signal (white wire) is routed to hazzard switch, then to the column in two separated wires (dark green and brown, one to each side of rears). These are linked with brakes to keep the constant feed when brakes are pressed.

Then with hazzards on, the pink wire coming out from flasher gets into the hazzards switch to feed rears hazzards… and also feeding fronts from a diff switch prong

or something like that.
 
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Ok just checked 68/69 diagrams.

red wire at hazzard switch feeds white (both rears), light green and tan (fronts) when activated coming from hazzard flasher

White (either from hazzards or brakes) is splitted into dark green and brown to feed each rear side at steering column switch.

now… to check for switches working conditions.

Down the column, jump red wire with each ones of the corners… these are, light green, tan, dark green and brown. This would make to work the turning flasher on each corner confirming the flasher is ok, and wiring and bulbs are also ok. This test works for 70 and lates too.

On hazzard switch, feed red wire with white, light green and tan… if get blinkers this would also confirm wiring and flasher is ok.

on both test, the fail points out to any or both of the switches.
 
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Ok just checked 68/69 diagrams.

red wire at hazzard switch feeds white (both rears), light green and tan (fronts) when activated coming from hazzard flasher

White (either from hazzards or brakes) is splitted into dark green and brown to feed each rear side at steering column switch.

now… to check for switches working conditions.

Down the column, jump red wire with each ones of the corners… these are, light green, tan, dark green and brown. This would make to work the turning flasher on each corner confirming the flasher is ok, and wiring and bulbs are also ok. This test works for 70 and lates too.

On hazzard switch, feed red wire with white, light green and tan… if get blinkers this would also confirm wiring and flasher is ok.

on both test, the fail points out to any or both of the switches.
So on my 70 one of the cans is busted but have a superseded replacement part from the dealer but often wondered if I could fix the original with a cam kit. Thoughts on it?
 
Maybe yes… depending on where it failed. But tipically yes.
Thanks for the reply. Just wondered because 70 I thought started the partial lane change feature where you could partially turn signals on for lane change and didn’t know if cam kit would work. Like my 70 issue better than superseded part because of Hazard button
 
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