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Normal wear and tear on Clutch/Flywheel?

73RR4SPD

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Hello again,

This is a new clutch/flywheel/PP from a few summers ago, I just pulled both engine and 4 spd yesterday. I don’t have any experience with what normal/abnormal wear and tear looks like, hence the pics. I’d love to hear what you guys see & think and thanks in advance.

Bob

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Thats like asking what is normal brake wear look like. Someone who lives in the mountains and is always late for work will look different from someone who just lives a few miles from work.
My customers would ask, "how long should these brakes last ?". My answer was " depends on how many times and how hard you press on the brake pedal.
Point is it all depends on what info that you haven't told us. A race car ?, A weekend car ? Daily driver? We can see aluminum heads so there has to be much more to the story. Also looks like the front plate from a scatter shield, not a stock bell housing.
 
I don’t see much in the way of heat spots or uneven appearance on the pressure plate and flywheel so I would guess it engaged smoothly. I would guess they are slightly glazed over. I would take some 80 or 120 grit on a sanding block and sand in orbital fashion around the surface of both and if they then look pretty uniform with no black heat spots or cracks, then reuse them. I suspect they will look just fine. I always install a new TO bearing anytime a clutch or transmission is out.
 
Looks like maybe a CenterForce Dual Friction unit?
Pressure plate wear pattern is a little concerning, least to me.
 
Thats like asking what is normal brake wear look like. Someone who lives in the mountains and is always late for work will look different from someone who just lives a few miles from work.
My customers would ask, "how long should these brakes last ?". My answer was " depends on how many times and how hard you press on the brake pedal.
Point is it all depends on what info that you haven't told us. A race car ?, A weekend car ? Daily driver? We can see aluminum heads so there has to be much more to the story. Also looks like the front plate from a scatter shield, not a stock bell housing.
Ok, Here’s the scoop.

Weekend drivin, no track time yet. A few summers more accurately defined is about 5 yrs.

440/512” 4 spd/3.55’s. Victor CNC’d heads with port matched Victor single plane. 10.5 CR, 950 DP Prosystems DP, Hyd. Roller 247/253 @.050, 640 lift 112 installed 108, HS 1.6 Roller Rockers, 1 3/4” headman headers, (just purchased 2” tti), 3“ exhaust w/H pipe. MT 325/50/15 Street Radials, SS Springs.

2 issues:

1. I have galling on the Rockers in the factory recessed areas (valve retainer to rocker interference?), 1 slightly bent pushrod (can only tell when rolled on flat surface), almost all the pushrods (3/8”, .080”) have wear bands on them in a couple of areas, one of them has the black anodized finish worn almost completely off the pushrod cup.1 rod had a crack in the pushrod cup.

Yes, the holes in heads have been heavily clearance’d but apparently not enough.

Went back to the builder, who threw another exact set of pushrods at me and told me to clearance the holes myself with the heads still on, install the pushrods and “enjoy the engine”. He wouldn’t clearance them himself after I asked him to).

So, the car is going for body and paint. I’ve yanked the engine and 4 spd. Engine is on engine stand. Any help is appreciated as to where I go from here.

Spoke to Smith bros pushrods, they told me I could get away with their 5/16” .080” pushrods as they’re good up to 700# open spring pressure, I have Comp 929’s (405#). I am thinking of going with Smith’s 5/16” .116” pushrods but for now have ordered a pushrod checker from them. Also thought about B3 Racing RA Geometry Kit. Also, I could just go down to 1.5 Ratio T&D‘s and sell my current ones. Engine currently puts out 697HP/635TQ.

2nd issue.

I cannot spin the tires from a rolling start in any gear. But once she gets going, she gets going.

Could my issue be my combo? I.e. Victor heads/single plane/3.55’s. Hence, my previous question about my clutch condition/wear pattern.

Again, this is my secondary issue. My first is RA geometry problem.

My goal with this car is 98% street driven and I realize now my motor isn’t quite built for that.

Truly apologize for the very long post. Can provide pics and vid’s of any of the parts.

Thanks,
Bob
 
Correct. Can you elaborate please?
The heat scoring on the inner 3rd of the pressure plates' friction surface specifically; it appears for there not to be even
wear/temperatures across the entire face of the contact area with the clutch disc.
Might be considered "normal" for this setup, I dunno - but IMO it appears there's been some "riding" of the clutch upon take-off
from a stop or some such?
That surface should look fairly uniform across the entire contact area.
 
The flywheel looks to me like it's seen a LOT of heat.
8 bolt crank, lot's of power to go along with that?
 
Flywheel/ clutch shape may be a little more severe than I’m thinking/said. I would put a piece of 80 grit on an obital and go around both to clean them up and then see what they look like. if the clean up good then they should be OK. If there are dark spots and streaks remaining the the clutch is probably a goner and the flywheel will at least need a resurfacing.
 
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