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off idle bog and very low idle at a stop... help

Huskie007

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Location
Tacoma, WA
My 383 has the Edelbrock Power Package with a Performer RPM Camshaft:
•.480''/.495'' Lift
•300°/308° Adv. Duration
•1500-6500 RPM Range

I ported the Big Block Chrysler Performer RPM Cylinder Head:
*210cc Intake Ports
•84cc Combustion Chambers
•2.14"/1.81" Valves
•1.55" Hydraulic Flat Tappet Valve Springs
•Max Lift: .600"

Headers and electronic ignition - orange box.
670 Holley street avenger.
Confirmed no vacuum leaks.
I checked the vacuum in gear and it was 5hgs.
I turned out the idle mixture screws out about two screws, car would not even move before dying and back fired through carb. I continued to turn them out till about 5 1/2 turns and the car would move, but it still had large stumble, but would not die from a stop. When I accelerated through the stumble, the car tool off and ran great above 10 mph's.
I replaced the power valve from 6.5hg to 2.5hg due to 5hg vacuum. The care drove worse, then I went to a 4.5hg power valve and it ran better.
Next I drilled a 3/32 size hole in each downward turning butterfly valves and replaced the .31 squirter with a .35 squirter.
The car seemed to run a lot better, but still had a bog, not huge, but is still there.
My accelerator pumps is adjusted for instance response.
I am going to check the timing next and move a few more degrees to see if that fixes the bog... other issue is the very low idle when I am at a stop. I have a 3500 stall converter, but car almost dies at stop. If I wait a bit the idle picks a little bit, but still very low. I tried to fix it by adjusting the curb idle, but it seemed to only affect the idle when the car is in park.

Looking for any help to get this right... I think I need to speed up my idle while in gear, at a stop with foot on brake and fix my bog...
 
whats duration at .50 on cam?
what timing you running

did you check float levels?

roughly 2-2.5 turns out on the idle mixtures is best.
checked for vacuum leaks?
 
You adjust the fuel mixture screws to highest rpm/vacuum after you optimize the timing.
 
thats a big cam for a 383. ignition curve will need to be reworked and big squirters don't work for driving.
 
Besides the cam, I did see check float levels, thats a definite! Also, accelerator pump cam(s), have you looked at those too? I would also re-check the accelerator pump(s) adjustment again just to make sure. What gap did you use? I have messed that up before! Also, when you change things around, try if you can to change one thing and see what it does. If you want, does take more time. But, if you make too many changes all at once, you may never know what it was that made the difference..

Hope it helps.. Good Luck!! keep us posted as you go.
 
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