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[skyman51]

I have had some serious performance cars over 40 years that I drove on the street and strip back in the day. This Max Wedge is my first Mopar. I have had many folks tell me the car is not streetable, and will foul the plugs if idled for even a short time. This is the LC 11.1 motor. Anyone have a comment from actual experience. My only driving plans are to a few cruise nights, five miles away.

 

[FatJack]

Drive it and enjoy. See how it does.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

You might concider mixing some race fuel & pump gas 50/50 to play it safe for when your ankle cramps up and you need to flatten your foot on the floor:bootyshake:If it's an automatic with original converter,you will have to go into "N" at the stop lights or stalling may occur.After you drive it and adjust the carbs,it will be a BLAST!!!!!!!!

 

[skyman51]

I mix Cam II 110 leaded race fuel and 93 pump gas in all my cars, but not 50/50. I usually put five gallons of the race gas in a tank. It is the HD A-727-B pushbutton Torqueflite.

 

[dartforforty]

Unless it has hardened seats you'll need a little lead. I had a 12-1 motor in a 63 Polara street/track car and I ran a 60-40 mix with out any problems. More pump gas than race gas

 

[696pack]

Keep the RPMs up and you will be fine and fun.

 

[skyman51]

I have a stock 1970 Chevelle LS6 with 11:25.1 CR. It runs fine on 93 pump gas with about 5 gallons of 110 octane leaded race fuel.

 

[Dodge 330]

As with any open plenum manifold, make sure the engine is cranking over before pumping the gas pedal to avoid a "ker-splode"!

In addition, a modern MSD ignition and electronic distributor would help with the low speed idle/running characteristics if you're willing to hide one in the car.

 

[skyman51]

As with any open plenum manifold, make sure the engine is cranking over before pumping the gas pedal to avoid a "ker-splode"!

In addition, a modern MSD ignition and electronic distributor would help with the low speed idle/running characteristics if you're willing to hide one in the car.

No offense intended, but I have been driving high performance cars for over 40 years including cross ram manifolds and I never experienced or heard of the first part of your reply. Anyone else care to comment?

 

[Stumper]

I drive my monster on the street (limited) - (12:1 compression, 278 / 286" duration @ 0.05”, 106 lobe separation ; .636/.636 lift ( total lift of .674” at 1.6 ratio ). My plugs are always dirty or course and I either have to throw it in neutral at stops or keep my foot working the throttle. It is a challenge to drive for sure (also manual steering and brakes and a manual valve body tranny) but as with all cars the more you do it the better you get at it. I do run it on 93 octane fuel most of the time .... There has been much discussion on this elsewhere and while most of the "rules" about compression and octane requirements are generally correct, there are many factors that go into the octane requirements as I have come to learn. In addition to having a "large" cam with lots of duration I also have ported Indy aluminum heads, Indy 440-1 single plane intake, forged aluiminum pistons and a cooling system that runs the motor cool (160-170 around town). I do not detect any detonation in my motor just tooling around town. I do run a can of booster at each fill up, not for any kind of power increase, just to help reduce detonation. If I were to be running the car hard as at the track, I would run a mixed racing fuel ratio to be safe.

The comment on backfires - an ongoing challenge with my motor too when I first start it up cold. I have tried the process Dodge 330 mentioned but find that I seem to blow more doing it that way than giving it a few good pumps before hitting the key..

Try it and see how it goes. I would avoid high traffic areas until you learn you car well.

 

[skyman51]

I think what will eliminate backfires is what I do with all my cars that have been sitting a few weeks. Holley carbs are notorious for leaking down. Rather then cranking and pumping, I pour a tiny bit of gas in the primary and the car fires right up with the turn of the key.

 

[67 B-body]

My 69 RR with the Weiand Tunnel ram and duel Holleys always liked two or three hits of the pedal then turn the key. It always fired right up, no questions asked!