Okay experts, what am I doing wrong?!

[OhioMopar]

Been messing with the Coronet in my spare time, trying to change the strut rod on the drivers side. The torsion bar is being a complete pain. New torsion bars. I greased them when I installed them. What I have done:
Backed the adjuster off. Check
Dropped the lower control arm.(Took the knuckle loose to put on my disk brakes) Check.
Took the nut off the LCA pivot. Check.
Removed the lower shock bolt. Check.
Bought a removal tool. Check.
Removed the retaining spring clip. Check.
I have tried with the rear wheels on the ground. Left rear tire went flat, so I put the car up on jack stands to make it even.
Read on here to support around the K-frame so the front sub frame isn't sagging. No dice. Bought taller stands and even used a level to try to get the car, well, level. Still nothing but frustration, a tool that now just slides up and down the torsion bar with ease, and no progress. Any ideas? It will go forward, but won't back out at all. :angryfire:

 

[YY1]

I had jack stands on the front frame rails (near the T bar crossmember) and the rear on the wheels.

I had my T bar adjusters almost completely out (actually they were out), and lower ball joint unbolted.

I used a big pry bar between the K frame and the pivot pin/adjuster/LCA assembly.

It was actually easier than I expected for a car that sat from 1974 until 2006.

 

[darkhorse]

Like YY1 said, remove adjusting bolt all the way out. (when I do Torsion bars I like to mark orientation so they go back in the same spot they came out). But like stated its very important to have the jacks in the right place. you can not have any load on the Tbars and expect to get them out, wont happen. I made my own tool. a 2x4 cut in half with two V notches cut into them, then I use C-clamps to tighten to the bar, then hit the C-clamp with a hammer, works well for me. But, anyways re-check how you are supporting the car. hope that helps. oh...are you going to be changing both sides of the strut rods? might be a good idea to do both. Ive seen some pretty bent strut rods, might be good ins, to check the other side if you have not already.

 

[OhioMopar]

I'll see if I can support the car better somehow. It is very frustrating! I have already changed the passenger side strut rod. That side is complete now except for some grease and a couple zerks that need installed. If I can get the driver side done, then the whole front suspension will be new and I won't have to mess with it again until I do something silly like add tubular upper and lower CA's. I do have the adjuster bolt all the way out. I took some time to just look over things to make sure I didn't have anything I was overlooking. I'm hoping it is a matter of not being supported right. I have 8 jack stands, so I hope I can get it situated to get all the load off.
In the rear, did you put the stands under the axle or frame?
Thanks guys, if you can think of anything else, I welcome the guidance.

 

[godfatherofchry]

put a block of wood on the t bar hold it with one hand take a 2lb. hamer and hit the wood this should brake it lose.. DONT hit the tbar without the wood.that always worked for me......Artie

 

[Propwash]

When you said "(Took the knuckle loose to put on my disk brakes)", is the LCA completely removed/unbolted from the steering arm/lower ball joint bolted to your spindle and now is hanging down freely? If not, did you take the rubber upper control arm bumper out? The one the UCA rests on when the suspension is completely off the ground? A majority of the time those need to be out as well. Gives about 1/2"- 1" more drop

 

[Meep-Meep]

If you have the LCA pivot bolt loose, the shaft is loose in the K and the lower BJ disconnected from the spindle I don't see what's holding this up except for maybe rust or a burr in the hex preventing the bar from sliding out. Clean all the grease out really well and check for raised metal around the snap ring groove.

 

[OhioMopar]

Prop, the LCA is still attached to the ball joint, which is loose from the spindle because I had to change the lower bolts to install my disk brakes. The LCA is loose. The pivot is loose. The adjuster is a couple threads from being out. Retaining clip is out. Knuckle is attached to the UCA, and the bump stop is still attached. I will surely make it out to mess with it this week, I will try to snap a couple pics.
I kinda thought that the only thing keeping it might be a burr, but it seems fine. I have been putting a lot of thought into the support of the car, if it is in a bind.
I will keep you guys posted, and thanks for the ideas.

 

[YY1]

Did you try the pry bar?

Can you get a good swing to smack the front of the pivot shaft after protecting the end with a wood block?

 

[OhioMopar]

Did you try the pry bar?

Can you get a good swing to smack the front of the pivot shaft after protecting the end with a wood block?

Had a pry bar on it when I was doing the initial 'whacking'. I don't have much room to swing anything in there. I have a small apartment garage and I don't have much room around the car.

 

[74sundance]

Mine came out easy on my Sundance but my Satellite was harder to do.I found the easy thing to do was to remove the 4 K frame bolts, with the car supported by jack stands I put a chunk of 2x4 on the back side of the K frame (where the oil pan would sit behind) and I hit it with a sledge hammer a few times just hard enough to brake it loose.I never even had to undo any thing at all I just slid the whole K-frame forward on a jack until the Bars were free and clear then I pulled them out by hand.

 

[darkhorse]

Have you gotten it out yet? have you gotten any movement out of it?

 

[OhioMopar]

Haven't had a chance to mess with it. I will get on it this weeke for sure. My time is getting limited to get it on the road before the Nats...