Operation Stroker - Pulling Engine without Transmission

[66 Sat]

I'm about to pull the engine for my stroker rebuild. Last time I did this it was engine/727 out from the bottom, and back in through the top.
This time I want to pull the engine and leave the auto trans in the car. I'm trying to reduce the amount of stuff I have to remove.
Nearly everything is unbolted, flex plate is disconnected from converter, just need to finish unbolting the trans from the engine (I've left 1 bolt in there) and then the engine mounts.
I'll have to raise the engine slightly for the mounts to clear the k frame before I can come forward and up. I've got the transmission supported by blocks of timber and the crossmember is still bolted in.
My question is will this work ok - I'm trying to remember if the transmission snout/converter will bind on anything.
Once the engine is out and at the engine builder I can finally repaint the engine bay body color. Hooray! No more Chevy look.

 

[66Satellite47]

I've done this many dozen times, be sure to push the convertor all the way back in the trans. It will come right out. Just go slow.

 

[451Mopar]

I run a ratchet strap under the trans bellhousing that wraps around the torsen bars to hold the transmission in the car.
After unbolting the converter you should be able to push it back to the converter is out of the crank.
The bellhousing dowel pins will want to lift the transmission as you lift the engine.
Usually, I just pry them apart the lazy way, but it make re-installing more difficult.
You could loosen / remove the trans tail shaft mount bolts to get the transmission to move back a bit.

 

[66 Sat]

It's a shame I can't get to the bolts that hold the engine mounts together. If I could unbolt them I could simply raise the engine a fraction of an inch and slide it forward.
Anyway, thanks for the advice, looks like it'll be ok, hopefully it will be out this weekend.

 

[451Mopar]

Had the same thought, but as I recall, it is difficult to get to the engine mount to engine bracket bolt in most cars.
I think you can loosen the engine mount on the older trucks. The brackets are alot longer.

 

[dvw]

Use a small C-clamp to hold the converter in. Place it through the opening in the bottom against the converter. The ratchet strap is a good idea. Leave the mechanism accessible so you can tighten it. A floor jack under the trans until you get it out will help. Trans lines tend to get in the way, I'd pull them off. Cover the trans outlets or it will continue to drip. If the trans has a drain plug drain it now.
Doug

 

[Darter6]

Me too.

 

[66Satellite47]

dvw & Darter have good suggestions. The cooler lines will likely be in the way, take them out. Use something to hold the convertor in place, I've used a short piece of wood, gently wedged into the ring gear to hold it. I also have used a floor jack to raise the trans up into the tunnel to gain a bit more clearance for the motor mounts. it just takes a little wiggling to get the angle right for the motor mounts to clear.

 

[Darter6]

Another shot

 

[66 Sat]

Engine popped right out this morning. Came apart from the transmission so easily, especially once I remembered to remove the last bolt (after 10 mins of cussing and trying to pry them apart haha).
As the engine was coming up the front end was lifting too with the weight coming off the suspension - it sits up like a gasser now.
Next jobs are painting the engine bay and fitting the 1.03" torsion bars I won in last year's PST Superbowl contest. They've been sitting on my garage floor for ages.