• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Orange Peel

EngineerDoug

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:53 AM
Joined
Oct 5, 2016
Messages
324
Reaction score
182
Location
Los Gatos, CA
Hello all,

Getting ready to paint my '68 Coronet body shell. I have been experimenting with adjusting my spray gun and am grappling with orange peel. Here is how I have things set up:

1) Eastwood HVLP gun, with 1.3 nozzle
2) 30 psi at the gun inlet, regulated
3) Using acrylic urethane + hardener + 10% medium reducer
4) Spray distance 6-8"
5) Gun speed fairly slow

I've done some reading on the web about the causes of orange peel, but would like some guidance on how to modify my settings/technique to reduce it. I have played around with adjusting the fluid volume down, and I have it at 2 turns inward from wide open.

Your thoughts/experience? Thanks.

Doug
 
if the reducer dries too fast, you're fighting an uphill battle...…. the larger the area combined with higher temperatures require a slow/very slow drying reducer
 
Hello all,

Getting ready to paint my '68 Coronet body shell. I have been experimenting with adjusting my spray gun and am grappling with orange peel. Here is how I have things set up:

1) Eastwood HVLP gun, with 1.3 nozzle
2) 30 psi at the gun inlet, regulated
3) Using acrylic urethane + hardener + 10% medium reducer
4) Spray distance 6-8"
5) Gun speed fairly slow

I've done some reading on the web about the causes of orange peel, but would like some guidance on how to modify my settings/technique to reduce it. I have played around with adjusting the fluid volume down, and I have it at 2 turns inward from wide open.

Your thoughts/experience? Thanks.

Doug
Fisheye reducer can also help with flowout, reducing orange peel. To some extent, all processes and techniques will still result in some amount of orange peel. Color sanding and buffing is required for a really smooth surface.

Tim
 
I suggest that you check with your paint jobber for his recommendations.
 
eldubb and guys, If too fast reducer can increase orange peel, what happens if you have too slow reducer? What do you get? I am thinking runs, fisheye. I guess what I am asking is if you have a temp and humidity range that overlaps the product ranges is it "safer" to go too slow or too fast? I tried to search for this but the keywords escape me.

RGAZ
 
I paint some and had this issue. My Uncle who has painted for 40 years was watching. Told me to close the spray pattern some and slow down a bit while spraying. Man it worked like a champ. Doing both these things allowed the paint to go on wetter....no more orange peel.
 
I haven't painted anything important in a long time, but heres my two cents; its a double edged sword. The additives (retarder) that prevent orange peel will indeed cause serious runs and other problems if you apply to much too soon, because of the slow dry. Only experience will give you a feel for how much paint to apply given the weather conditions. Also, how about your viscosity??? I never sprayed a thing without making damn sure the viscosity was within range as according to the instructions from your jobber for your mix. I know for a fact it prevented all my guessing from becoming big mistakes. HTH, Lefty71
 
One other thing relative to runs, sags, etc. is don't try to get too much coverage in one pass. Teaching myself to flash coat the first coat was tough, but really helps. Painting candy's and other transparent finishes requires a slightly different approach.
Tim
 
Thanks to all for your tips. If all goes well I will be painting this Sunday. It does seem to be the consensus that some amount of orange peel is to be expected, so I will plan on cutting and buffing later.
 
If you're useing a metallic urethane paint, cutting and buffing is minimal before you cut into the metallic.
 
Luckily no metallic - Sublime Green single stage. I know my limitations well enough not to tackle metallic. Haven't painted a car in 22 years or so.

Sublime was my first choice anyway; I think it will look great on the car.
 
Luckily no metallic - Sublime Green single stage. I know my limitations well enough not to tackle metallic. Haven't painted a car in 22 years or so.

Sublime was my first choice anyway; I think it will look great on the car.

If you have areas like under the car, hood, trunk lid, ect, you can experiment where it doesn't show as much before shooting the outside. This kind of heat and humidity I'd get the slowest reducer.

Watch for "blushing" when you have high humidity.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top