Original AC Components and this new R134a stuff

[318 Six Pack]

Okay gang, what I have is most or all of the original AC components for my 1972 Charger (318). Some of the metal lines are off the car, but the dryer, compressor, and condenser are still on the car.

Guessing I will need to rebuild the compressor? A shoulda-woulda-coulda moment happened just now. Just a few years ago NAPA used to carry a direct replacement RV2, same look/design, for about $199 IIRC. Now they do not list it.

Anyway, guessing I need to find a rebuild kit and rebuild the compressor myself. Any recommendations on where to get a correct kit?

Will replace any rubber hoses too, check metal hoses and have condensor checked.

Bigger question, does that 134a jazz work in the older systems?

Thanks in advance!

Edit: Found this http://www.acpartshouse.com/categories/air-conditioning-and-heating/ac-compressor?page=1 and it is only $140.

From reading discussions on other boards, there is some question as to if rebuild kits contain the right components and they stop posting before revealing resolution.

 

[Photon440]

Although not an expert or my trade, I've revived some non-working a/c systems. Basically, this site will give you your answers.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/retrofit.htm

After replacing the oil and desiccant, and the rubber parts that you already mentioned then yes, 134A will work. But only about 85% as efficiently as the original R12.

And when I had a Plymouth neon, I used this and it worked fine:
http://www.duracool.com/

 

[318 Six Pack]

Although not an expert or my trade, I've revived some non-working a/c systems. Basically, this site will give you your answers.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/retrofit.htm

After replacing the oil and desiccant, and the rubber parts that you already mentioned then yes, 134A will work. But only about 85% as efficiently as the original R12.

And when I had a Plymouth neon, I used this and it worked fine:
http://www.duracool.com/

Ah, excellent stuff there! Since my system is in pieces, there is no chance that there is any R12 still lurking in there. Looks like I need to get a valve too. Something I forgot to add above, I am pretty sure I'll need a new clutch and those do not look like they are easy to come by.

Thanks again!

 

[68GTX440]

It is not the R-12 you have to worry about!! It is the oil that still resides in the system. Any part that you do not replace flush it out with an a/c flush solvent.

Ah, excellent stuff there! Since my system is in pieces, there is no chance that there is any R12 still lurking in there. Looks like I need to get a valve too. Something I forgot to add above, I am pretty sure I'll need a new clutch and those do not look like they are easy to come by.

Thanks again!

 

[318 Six Pack]

It is not the R-12 you have to worry about!! It is the oil that still resides in the system. Any part that you do not replace flush it out with an a/c flush solvent.

Yes, I failed to mention that I'd noticed the detail about the mineral oil vs. new oil. When I get condenser and (whatever the blower side is called) pressure tested I need to have them and the metal lines flushed, and clean the compressor of all that when I rebuild that too. Saw that different rubber lines should be used too, but was going to replace those anyway.

 

[68GTX440]

Also make sure you use the green o-rings as they are designed for more heat, you will get a few more degrees in temp on the unit as a whole.

Yes, I failed to mention that I'd noticed the detail about the mineral oil vs. new oil. When I get condenser and (whatever the blower side is called) pressure tested I need to have them and the metal lines flushed, and clean the compressor of all that when I rebuild that too. Saw that different rubber lines should be used too, but was going to replace those anyway.

 

[ws27]

I'd recommend you call Classic Auto Air in Florida. They can get you what you need, give you the all the correct advice, and you can send your parts to them to rebuild. They will rebuild the compressor and drier, make new correct hoses. They can rebuild the heater valve if necessary.

I haven't done mine just yet, but will real soon.

At least give them a call for some opinions.

 

[idrivemopar]

I'd recommend you call Classic Auto Air in Florida. They can get you what you need, give you the all the correct advice, and you can send your parts to them to rebuild. They will rebuild the compressor and drier, make new correct hoses. They can rebuild the heater valve if necessary.

I haven't done mine just yet, but will real soon.

At least give them a call for some opinions.

I had Classic Auto air rebuild my compressor, receiver, and redo my lines. It wasn't cheap, but top notch work! Just an FYI, you will have to remove the EPR valve and use an external sensor to cut off the compressor with R134a otherwise the evaporator will freeze up. At least that was what I was told when they redid my compressor.

 

[Dennis H]

Classic Auto Air. Tampa. I have their stuff and went to the shop. They have tons of inventory. My AC has been ice cold for ten years.

 

[ord27]

don't forget to replace the dryer. inexpensive and could save you a ton of headaches

 

[YY1]

I'm not sure who did the conversion on my Satellite's factory system (there's a sticker), bit I don't see any aftermarket parts (other than the port/valve adapters), and it will freeze you out just like the factory "ice cold RV2 based Mopar A/C" is supposed to.

I've put 6,000+ miles on the car, and other than a leak down vacuum test and top off of 134 a year ago, everything works great.

I get all sorts of doubletake looks driving around in the FL 95+ degree heat with the windows up and a smile on my face!

RV2 compressors are known for being super durable, if perhaps a bit of an HP hog, although the modern sanden style is much more common today, and easliy adaptable.