Parking brake switch
- Thread starter mjb765
- Start date
440roadrunner
Well-Known Member
I BELIEVE they are very similar to the older single terminal door switches, that is, one wire, and it grounds to turn the lamp on
440roadrunner
Well-Known Member
Can you tell what color the wire is?
Another way you could do that is to use a "heavy" test lamp which will draw a lot of current. This is something I occasionally find handy.
I keep an old tail/ stop socket and bulb. This mess of old is INCREDIBLY handy. If you want it to draw little current, use the two wires and not the socket ground, placing the two bulb filaments in series.
If you want a little more draw, use the tail light wire (and socket ground), which is a lot more current than a typical 12V test lamp
If you want more yet, use the stop light wire and ground
And..........if you want more yet, wire both tail/ stop wires together, making both filaments work together.
Hope I didn't lose you
So.................Go down to the brake warning light switch, pull the wire off the switch and ground it. With the key on, the warning light should come on. This will confirm it actually works
Reinstall that wire, go in and grab your unidentified wire, and hook your "heavy" test lamp to it. Because your "heavy" test lamp draws a lot of juice, but will not hurt the circuit, it draws more current than the warning lamp bulb. This will cause the warning lamp to light, maybe dimly, but if you have a "live" wire there, your "heavy" light will not burn anything down.
(The other thing this junker of a test instrument is good for is charging small batteries, when your charger is "too big." You can configure the device several ways, as above, to adjust charging current to the (motorcycle, etc) battery.
Another way you could do that is to use a "heavy" test lamp which will draw a lot of current. This is something I occasionally find handy.
I keep an old tail/ stop socket and bulb. This mess of old is INCREDIBLY handy. If you want it to draw little current, use the two wires and not the socket ground, placing the two bulb filaments in series.
If you want a little more draw, use the tail light wire (and socket ground), which is a lot more current than a typical 12V test lamp
If you want more yet, use the stop light wire and ground
And..........if you want more yet, wire both tail/ stop wires together, making both filaments work together.
Hope I didn't lose you
So.................Go down to the brake warning light switch, pull the wire off the switch and ground it. With the key on, the warning light should come on. This will confirm it actually works
Reinstall that wire, go in and grab your unidentified wire, and hook your "heavy" test lamp to it. Because your "heavy" test lamp draws a lot of juice, but will not hurt the circuit, it draws more current than the warning lamp bulb. This will cause the warning lamp to light, maybe dimly, but if you have a "live" wire there, your "heavy" light will not burn anything down.
(The other thing this junker of a test instrument is good for is charging small batteries, when your charger is "too big." You can configure the device several ways, as above, to adjust charging current to the (motorcycle, etc) battery.
mjb765
Well-Known Member
I will have to go see what color the wire is when I get home. I have no switch right now and the only wire I see is the one that has + power to it. I grounded a test light and when I touch this wire, the light comes on indicating the wire is +
Propwash
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-Dash-Decals-Emergency-Brake-Pedal-Light-Switch-Mopar-B-E-Body-/120862510050?hash=item1c23f78be2&item=120862510050&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
NOS....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1967-70-B-BODY-PARK-BRAKE-LAMP-INDICATOR-SWITCH-GTX-CHARGER-R-RUNNER-/230681762177?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b5b45981
I'm sure someone could get you one a heck of a lot cheaper if you posted something in the "wanted ad's".. Or a run of the mill door jamb switch will work fine if you're not looking for the exact look (pretty much first link posted above)
Good luck
Stock switch on my '69 RR
NOS....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1967-70-B-BODY-PARK-BRAKE-LAMP-INDICATOR-SWITCH-GTX-CHARGER-R-RUNNER-/230681762177?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b5b45981
I'm sure someone could get you one a heck of a lot cheaper if you posted something in the "wanted ad's".. Or a run of the mill door jamb switch will work fine if you're not looking for the exact look (pretty much first link posted above)
Good luck
Stock switch on my '69 RR
440roadrunner
Well-Known Member
Like I said, when you have your test light hooked to the wire, look carefully "in the shade" for a glow from the warning lamp.
The other thing you can do, is unhook the wire at the brake warning switch, ground it, and turn on the key. The warning light should be lit.
Now with this condition, re--check your unknown wire for power with your light. At this point the light should NOT light, as that wire (if correct) should be seeing the ground from the brake warning switch wire.
mjb765
Well-Known Member
So found a switch and hooked it up and it worked!!!! Don't ask me why there is positive power at that wire, but when the switch closes to ground the light comes on like it's suppose to. Very strange..but it works!! Thanks for all of your help everybody!
440roadrunner
Well-Known Member
!!!HEH!!! IF you'd read my post, I 'xplained it to you. Power comes from the KEY through the LIGHT and the SWITCH grounds it to turn it on. So with the switch OPEN it will have power on it
mjb765
Well-Known Member
I must have missed when you said that.......but thanks for the help.
The way I read it, it sounded like you thought I had 2 wires down there...the one on the switch and the "unknown" wire, when in fact there was no switch installed and I only had one wire hanging down in that area. That's the one I found power on....
But anyway--It works and I thank you again for your help!!!!
The way I read it, it sounded like you thought I had 2 wires down there...the one on the switch and the "unknown" wire, when in fact there was no switch installed and I only had one wire hanging down in that area. That's the one I found power on....
But anyway--It works and I thank you again for your help!!!!
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