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Part throttle stumble / slight vibration

zdillinger

Well-Known Member
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9:51 AM
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Michigan
Gentleman,

Having pulled my '73 Satellite out for the year (90 in March... in Michigan... who would have guessed?), I've been driving all over the last week or so. However, I have a strange problem and I'm seeking your collective wisdom and suggestions. For reference, it is a 318 2bbl with 904 auto. 2.73 8 1/4 rear end. Bone stock (to my knowledge) except for Blaster 2 coil (cheap mexican one died on me and this is what I had on hand to replace it, hate the red instead of black, but oh well).

In addition to being a real b$%$@ to start while cold, while driving around town I have a part-throttle stumble and vibration, as well as some nasty snarl-pops out the exhaust (this might be the burned up cherry bombs fault). Once warm, it idles strong at 800 rpm, and accelerates strongly, although when cold it wants to stall when I hit the pedal a little. I've set the accelerator pump and the choke kick per FSM. I've adjusted the mixture so that, at idle, it pulls about 18 inches of vacuum (checked through the PCV valve hose to the carb, 18 was the highest I could get). The plugs look good, not gas fouled or lean-white, but a nice toasty brown color. The fuel filter and pump were new last year and have less than 250 miles overall. Good hot spark, timing set per FSM. Vacuum advance works properly.

The only problem that I know for sure is an exhaust leak from the right manifold, which I believe has to do with the heat riser, and terribly loud cherry bombs that accentuate every pop and snarl. Sounds bad-*** but I need to quiet it down a bit. I don't think either of those have an effect on the problem, perhaps the riser issue could.

Could it be the float setting? Would seem strange to me, since it really revs up nicely when you stomp on it (when at operating temp).

I've checked or replaced every vacuum line. Retorqued the intake manifold and carb. I don't suspect vacuum leaks.

Do you guys have any suggestions, other than dumping the 2bbl? I'd like to keep the car as stock as possible (sentimental reasons). If it comes to it, I'd consider dumping it, but it is a last, last ditch effort. I don't care about speed, this is just a cruiser and I'd like it to be as reliable as a 40+ year old car can be. Am I expecting too much of this car? I'd like it to run smooth, no vibration or stumbles.
 
I had this same problem the year before last and i rebuilt my carb and still had it, I did and still do have an Acell coil with a great spark... My spark plugs had very few miles on them, less then what your saying hear... and still had the problem. I bought new wires and cap/rotor the whole 9 yards, i was kind of at the point of pulling my hair out trying to figure this out, my son said the carb was getting pretty old so, being i knew it was i bought a new carb but didn't change one thing. After walking away for almost a week and going over everything in my head i decided that the only thing i didn't try was new plugs, they were almost new and looked like it, but i bought a set and put in and that stopped my problem! Maybe this wont help you but if you can do it its worth a shot..
 
I had this same problem the year before last and i rebuilt my carb and still had it, I did and still do have an Acell coil with a great spark... My spark plugs had very few miles on them, less then what your saying hear... and still had the problem. I bought new wires and cap/rotor the whole 9 yards, i was kind of at the point of pulling my hair out trying to figure this out, my son said the carb was getting pretty old so, being i knew it was i bought a new carb but didn't change one thing. After walking away for almost a week and going over everything in my head i decided that the only thing i didn't try was new plugs, they were almost new and looked like it, but i bought a set and put in and that stopped my problem! Maybe this wont help you but if you can do it its worth a shot..

Ron, I'll pick up some new plugs at the parts store tonight and give it a try. It's worth the $20 or so just to check one more potential cause off the list.

Thanks, Zach
 
somtimes when the accelerator pump is starting to go it will do that when cold then clear up as it gets warmer. also the crossover in the intake manifold may be clogged up with carbon. those were the two main problems we had back in the day in cold weather. the plugs could be it as well with the gas we have these day's strange things seem to happen to the plugs
 
what sort of choke is your 2 barrel running and does the problem happen all the time or only while cold?
 
somtimes when the accelerator pump is starting to go it will do that when cold then clear up as it gets warmer. also the crossover in the intake manifold may be clogged up with carbon. those were the two main problems we had back in the day in cold weather. the plugs could be it as well with the gas we have these day's strange things seem to happen to the plugs

It could be the accelerator pump. I adjusted it per the FSM, but if it isn't in good working order it could be the cause. I know for sure the crossover isn't plugged because I cleared it out when I put the intake manifold on and I've run less than 100 miles total since that was done. I do need to hook the vacuum to the EGR valve, as that is not hooked up at the moment. It is sealed off. I'll switch out the plugs and hook the EGR up, after I fix the exhaust leak.

what sort of choke is your 2 barrel running and does the problem happen all the time or only while cold?

Electric BBD choke, but missing the choke heater control module (can't find one anywhere). The vibration / stumble happens all the time, whether warm or cold.
 
the problem happens warm or cold? i think it is the accelerator pump. they dry up after a few years you can set it all you want and it will change nothing a kit is cheap and changing the pump is a snap. i would run a blockoff plat instead of using the egr it was a pain in the butt back in the day and will be now as well, if it does not leak it and is not hooked up it is doing nothing but if that egr valve is leaking it will cause some drivability problems as well but i would look to the acc pump as that was the most common problem on those carbs.
 
Just an update on this post. This week, I replaced the accelerator pump and that completely cured the part-throttle stumble and vibration! I guess it just wasn't get that shot of fuel it needed to run strong at part throttle.

After getting the car to run right with the new accelerator pump, I retuned the carb, removed and replaced the burnt up passenger side exhaust manifold gasket, repaired the heat riser valve and hooked up the EGR and OSAC valve. The car ran like crap with the OSAC valve hooked up, so I bypassed it again and it now runs / drives great!

Next planned operation is to change the oil and coolant, and hit the road for some extended trial drives. I suspect I need some front end work, as it feels a little loose. Of course, this is my first big old car, so maybe thats just par for the course. Anyway, a new rubber front end (not a performance car, so I just want safe and fun, no nylon here) will make me feel a whole lot better.

Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions on how to get my car running right!

Zach
 
glad to hear it is running good. if it were me i would find an egr block off plate and get rid of the egr if it is hooked up and sticks open it will run like crap again. most of the performance motors back in the day never had one in the first place, my 78 aspen rt with a 360 four barrel never had one from the factory you won't need it. just for fun what do you have your timming set at?
 
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