Pertronix installation

[moparchris]

I could have also titled this" After 40 years of this crap I still feel stupid"
So I installed the basic Pertronix kit on my 71 GTX. Black wire to Neg. on the Coil. Per the instructions I spliced the Red wire to the Ignition side of the Ballast. Car has weak spark coming out of coil and weak spark at the plugs. It appears to be not enough voltage to provide a strong enough spark to allow the car to run. I have watched a couple of idiot videos and everyone just runs both Red and Black wires straight to the coil. I feel like I followed the instructions properly so WTF??
Photo 1 shows the Red Pertronix wire spliced to the Blue Ignition wire on the ballast. Photo 2 shows instructions.
The center carb accelerator pump cover cracked and started a huge fuel leak today as well so the car is down while I wait for a new pump cover to arrive. I will take any input on the ignition issue but it will be a week or so before I can get back at it.

 

[1967coronet]

I have had the basic pertronix #1 on my 67 for several years,
if you have a low voltage problem take the red wire off the coil & test with a jumper wire from positive side of the battery to the red ignitor wire. If that brings it to life you need to hook that red wire in to switched 12 volts before it gets to the ballast resistor or the inbound side.
the ignitor likes a 1.5 ohm coil , make sure you air gap is set at .030, good rotor and cap.

 

[Nate S]

I put one on my car for about 15 minutes before I took it back off. Was hooked up properly and everything. Just was kinda weak and intermittent. And no I’m not a hack.

 

[Don Frelier]

Waiting for mr Renton...

 

[1967coronet]

Waiting for mr Renton...

 

[Bee1971]

With the engine running you should have 12-14.5 Volts on the ignition side of the ballast resistor depending upon your charging system / wiring etc blue wire

Check that first with an volt meter

Then on the other side of the ballast resistor depending upon ohm resistance you should have 7-9-12 volts and that same value on the positive side of coil with engine running

Let us know how many volts at that blue wire / red wire on ballast with engine running +
Volts at positive side of coil with engine running

 

[Bee1971]

I have had the basic pertronix #1 on my 67 for several years,
if you have a low voltage problem take the red wire off the coil & test with a jumper wire from positive side of the battery to the red ignitor wire. If that brings it to life you need to hook that red wire in to switched 12 volts before it gets to the ballast resistor or the inbound side.
the ignitor likes a 1.5 ohm coil , make sure you air gap is set at .030, good rotor and cap.

Agree about the 1.4/1.5 OHM Coil

 

[4mulas]

Pertronix Recommends certain ohm resistance coil. Buy their ignition coil and you’ll probably be good to go.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I recall have seen somewhere on instructions ( on line ) they recommend the ballast bypass? Hence the reason why ppl conects the ignitor system straight to the coil, because with ballast bypassed the + lead of coil will be getting full voltage allways. Well, dunno, just what I recall.

Maybe things changed along the years.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Reading instructions, it seems nowdays both setups are allowed

https://images.carid.com/pertronix/products/pdf/1183-installation-instructions.pdf

 

[Bee1971]

The O P needs to state what coil he is running now , and again what voltage to ballast resistor and coil like mentioned first and proceed from there

Pertronix clearly mentions when running there 1.5 OHM coil with an inductive ignition system to eliminate the ballast resistor and run full volts to the positive side of the coil

Same with running that coil on Mopar Electronic Ignition Systems - That’s a subject for another post or time

Problem these days , clearly not all Chinese and Mexican Coils are created equal or depending upon what day they where built the quality is just pure junk

 

[Nacho-RT74]

My interpretaton of instructions:

Ignitor CAN be used with 1.5 primary resistance coil, recomending their own one of course

and for max performance, JUST RECOMEND ( not mandatory ) remove of the ballast or resistor wire

on alternative installation with ballast/resistor, they don't say IT MUST BE with stock coils, or any primary coil resistance rate. Just post as an alternative option.

I can't see any mandatory setup, just recomendations for max performance on the instalation setup instructions section at least.

HOWEVER... and this is what I love from some manufacturers!! on last table they say:

NOTE: REMOVE OR BYPASS EXTERNAL BALLAST RESISTOR OR RESISTANCE WIRE WHEN INSTALLING THE RECOMMENDED FLAME-THROWER COIL.

Isn't this fun? firts they just recomend and they later expresselly say what must be done LOL


about this manufacturer diagram posted by OP:

I guess that was the option when they didn't have their own coil available on those days.

However I can read on diagram legend... "BALLAST RESISTOR MAY OR"

would be interesting to read all that sheet

 

[yella71]

So my first question is....Why? what was wrong with your points? if you just made a change to make a change you should have just done a factory electronic ign swap.

 

[GrabberOrange69]

So my first question is....Why? what was wrong with your points? if you just made a change to make a change you should have just done a factory electronic ign swap.

Allows you to keep your original distributor housing. Restoration guys do it for that reason.

I’ve been running a Pertronix 1 for 18 years in my Mallory YL. Completely trouble free, mine is running through the ballast resistor.

 

[threewood]

I love my Pertronix II and III. I've never used the I. That said, the ballast resistor was in place to protect the points. Bypass the ballast and try again.

 

[yella71]

Allows you to keep your original distributor housing. Restoration guys do it for that reason.

I’ve been running a Pertronix 1 for 18 years in my Mallory YL. Completely trouble free, mine is running through the ballast resistor.

factory ignition is also in your factory distributer housing...... If its gotta be original than stick with the points. That being said I,ve neve had an issue with pretronx when installed right. ive put it in a few things .

 

[69 R/T]

I installed Pertronix II in my 69 Coronet R/T, and trying to keep her the stock appearance as much as possible I ran the two wires straight to the coil. However, in order to do this I had to run to run a jumper
By soldering a lead between the two terminals on the back side of the ballast resistor to make it a constant 12 volts. It works without failure and it's a much cleaner installation than running wires all over the place and it runs like a champ!

 

[red 69 runner]

Yes use the pertronix matching coil and bypass the resistor,had mine for 8 years now never any problem.Ignitor ll

 

[super-bee_ski]

Good thread
Good info
My application: 1963 dodge "440" with 318 Poly.
Having issues
8 Volts on coil while cranking.
Going to bypass resistor wire and connect as diagram red wire from Petronix 1 to coil as 69 R/T
*Not splicing into the Blue Wire yet.
More to come

 

[super-bee_ski]

Thanks Nacho!