Pinion Yokes - What to Use

[Charlie Brown]

I'll be having a new driveshaft made for my TKX conversion. The yoke on my diff is currently a 7260 small yoke. Engine is a 426W in the range of 450 hp / 450 torque. 64 Dodge is the car. Is there a good reason to upgrade to a 7290 or 1310 yoke or will the 7260 handle what I have. Thanks, Charlie.

 

[Bird 426]

Well, I would want a solid u-joint . Not sure they make a small one, but they do make the large one. I just wouldn't want a greasable u-joint.

 

[Fran Blacker]

If your buying a new driveshaft made go 7290 on driveshaft and use a combination u-joint 7290/7260 to mate to rear yoke. If change HP you'll have a strong driveshaft.

 

[Darter6]

I agree with Fran,

7290/7260

I have used the conversion joints on many cars.Even drag racing with slicks.30 years, never a failure.
The photo is of my 65 Belvedere 451 B stroker with a Tremec TKO

 

[33 IMP]

Stick shift with big block torque? Go as big as practical.
2nd on Frans answer. (Or more).
Assuming 8 3/4. What # housing? (Spacer or crush sleeve?)

 

[j-c-c-62]

Why not just go 1350 and be done with it?

 

[33 IMP]

Why not just go 1350 and be done with it?

If it was a race car with a stick and twelve inch slicks, that's what I'd recommend too. I've got a four inch aluminum shaft with billet yokes and 1350s on both ends, in my 14"slick transbrake car.
"Spirited" street driving doesn't need it. Unnecessary expense.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Why not just go 1350 and be done with it?

True but the cross is the same on 1330 u j, 7290 u j and 1350 u j. The only difference is the cup OD. You can swap the cups between the three u-joints.

 

[Bird 426]

I guess that no one here has ever twisted a greasable u-joint to destruction. It's your car, it will probably be fine. Not for my car.

 

[Charlie Brown]

Stick shift with big block torque? Go as big as practical.
2nd on Frans answer. (Or more).
Assuming 8 3/4. What # housing? (Spacer or crush sleeve?)

Currently, I have a 741 case (3.55 w / cone style LSD) and a 742 case (3.23 w / clutch style LSD). Both have small yoke. I do have a 3.55 gear set for the 742, which I would have to swap to use with current trans setup.

 

[dodgeboy440]

I'll be having a new driveshaft made for my TKX conversion. The yoke on my diff is currently a 7260 small yoke. Engine is a 426W in the range of 450 hp / 450 torque. 64 Dodge is the car. Is there a good reason to upgrade to a 7290 or 1310 yoke or will the 7260 handle what I have. Thanks, Charlie.

STRANGE ENGINEERING……

Great People & Phenomenal Parts !!!

Mopar2ya!

 

[33 IMP]

Then Fran's #3 is the answer I would go with.
Regarding a greasable joint..... just make sure the joint is installed with the zerk in compression under power.
Yes, solid is preferred, but if greased combo is all that's available......?

 

[j-c-c-62]

So, the solid vs greaseable joint discussion, is the problem where the zerk is located on the joint or the fact the joint is also completely cross drilled?
Seems like a cross drilled joint could be very easily greased without the zerk accommodation if the zerk was located in the end cap in 4 or say 2 opposite caps, for balance, and just lube thru those fittings, having best of both worlds? Can't see a zerk in the center of a cap weakening it much if any.

 

[33 IMP]

So, the solid vs greaseable joint discussion, is the problem where the zerk is located on the joint or the fact the joint is also completely cross drilled?
Seems like a cross drilled joint could be very easily greased without the zerk accommodation if the zerk was located in the end cap in 4 or say 2 opposite caps, for balance, and just lube thru those fittings, having best of both worlds? Can't see a zerk in the center of a cap weakening it much if any.

I think the zerk is located where it can be greased without disassembly. Kinda hard to do in the center.
And I much prefer the solid joints too. How many times is a zerk-fitted u-joint routinely greased?

 

[j-c-c-62]

I think the zerk is located where it can be greased without disassembly. Kinda hard to do in the center.
And I much prefer the solid joints too. How many times is a zerk-fitted u-joint routinely greased?

My suggestion above has nothing to do with the inaccessible center of the u joint.
I'm talking about the center of the end cap(s) and very easily greased with no disassembly.
If one wanted a true solid uncrossed drilled u joint, then use four zerk fitted caps

 

[Fran Blacker]

My suggestion above has nothing to do with the inaccessible center of the u joint.
I'm talking about the center of the end cap(s) and very easily greased with no disassembly.
If one wanted a true solid uncrossed drilled u joint, then use four zerk fitted caps

U-joints are made with ability to grease through a cup. The grease gun need to have the tip like a ball with a hole for the grease to come out. Manufacturers don't seem to make them widely available or I haven't looked that's true. If I can find a pic I'll post it right the search is buffering WTF!

 

[Fran Blacker]

My suggestion above has nothing to do with the inaccessible center of the u joint.
I'm talking about the center of the end cap(s) and very easily greased with no disassembly.
If one wanted a true solid uncrossed drilled u joint, then use four zerk fitted caps

U-joints are made with ability to grease through a cup. The grease gun need to have the tip like a ball with a hole for the grease to come out. Manufacturers don't seem to make them widely available or I haven't looked that's true. If I can find a pic I'll post it right the search is buffering WTF!

 

[Fran Blacker]

Picture with regular zerk and ball fitting, you need round tip on grease gun.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Why the round tip?
Looks like a conventional zerk grease fitting installed in the cap?

 

[Darter6]

How many times is a zerk-fitted u-joint routinely greased?

Most likely never. For the average guy or gal. If diversify comes in play, game over..