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Power front disc brake kits

68bee70rr

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I have seen several brakes kits complete with boosters and everything else included for 68- 70 b-body, from place like summit and jegs or ebay. While i was at the Mopar Swap Meet just above Detroit this past weekend , there was a guy selling brake kits with original boosters. Was asking 800 + for the booster alone. Aside from being original, This guy was stating the kits are terrible dont work or dont work well. Can anyone give me their insight on these kits? Here is a link to one of the kits i was considering: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120814468171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649. Any help would be appreciated. Also can anyone recommend where to find a radiator for a 69rr big block car.
 
I am not overly familiar with all "cheap" disc brake conversions that are now available.I also don't know what type of performance you need.What i will say is a few years ago I reached the outer limits of my 6 cyl front brake shoes and went with an SSBC manual disc brake conversion.EVERYTHING to convert comes in the box right down to the cotter pins.My last time at the track with my 3800+ lb brick,I had no problem stopping from over 130 MPH.I liked the 4 piston calipers and did not bother with the cross drilled/slotted rotors.There are lots of places to save money,your brakes aint one of them.
 
Right Stuff Detailing Kit

It appears that several of these kits are basically the same. I suspect there are only a couple of people putting them together and then they are sold thru many distributors. I recently installed the Right Stuff 4 wheel disc kit on my '70 Satellite (http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/RSeCommerce/ProductDetails.aspx?mName=MDC42DC&source=List). Overall I am happy with it. I have put several hundred miles on the car with no problems. The parts all fit and they are a major improvement over the factory drums. Some of the other kits look better but are outside my budget - especially for a roadrunner clone that I do not plan to race.

Here are a few notes about the install:
1. I have the power kit and the master cylinder/booster combination is quite large. Be sure you are OK with this as it really takes over your engine compartment.
2. My car had power brakes to start with and the old booster fit tightly to the firewall. When I removed it there was a large hole that needed to be covered as the new booster stands a few inches off the firewall. The instructions say they have a cover for the hole but I was installing the kit over the holidays and could not wait for parts. I made one myself and painted it black. It looks OK but i would suggest asking for the plate.
3. The hoses on the front calipers stick up very high and at the extremes when turning the rubber hose contacts the upper control arm. This made me a bit nervous so I modified the hose (bent the steel portion of the line). Just be careful when doing this.
4. The rear discs do require the "green" bearings. I did not mind this because my rear axle seals were leaking and needed to be replaced anyway. I just bought the kit and installed all new bearings and seals.
5. The factory rear brake lines need to be shortened and a small bracket installed (included). They suggest welding it in place on the axle housing. It holds the connection between the hard line and flexible line. I do not have a welder so I made an L-shaped bracket and used a hose clamp to attach it to the axle (this is temporary but works fine).
6. The parking brake cables sent with the kit are not right but the old ones work. I had to remove the spring that winds around the and that goes into the drum and put a spacer on the left side to get the cable housing length correct.
7. They sent an adjustable valve to install in the rear brake line. I assume this is in case the rear brakes lock up too early. I figured I would install if it necessary and used the factory proportioning valve. I have driven the car on both wet and dry surfaces and checked the lockup. The fronts lock up before the rears in all cases so I have not installed the valve yet. I will keep an eye on it as the parts wear in.

All in all the kit included everything needed. I bought mine thru Classic Industries because I had a 20% off coupon so the purchase price was under $1000 for the 4 wheel power brake kit.

I hope all this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

Doug
 
One thing to remember on most of those kits.....If your car came with power drums, those kits (booster/brackets) are designed to go from manual drum to power disc, not power drum to power disc..I found out the hard way and then began the jouney of finding all the Bendix factory stuff.....

Don't know your set up, so just saying.....
 
Yes it is manual drum now. Thanks to everyone for all input. Very much appreciated. Anyone know where to buy or exactly what radiator to buy for the 69rr?
 
What is your combo?What type of driving do you do?Will you take it to the TRACK???
 
383 Built , 727, Do alot back road racing. I will take to the track just for time trials ect...
 
One thing to remember on most of those kits.....If your car came with power drums, those kits (booster/brackets) are designed to go from manual drum to power disc, not power drum to power disc..I found out the hard way and then began the jouney of finding all the Bendix factory stuff.....

Don't know your set up, so just saying.....

So the conversion kits that include a power booster do not work with existing power drum set ups? Are there any kits that do work?
 
So the conversion kits that include a power booster do not work with existing power drum set ups? Are there any kits that do work?

A Majority of the kits have an incorrect arm (OEM has a rod) out the back of the booster (will not bolt/line up into factory hole in brake pedal arm w/factory power brake car). Like previously mentioned in this post, seems most companys use the same series of aftermarket booster and then stamp their name on it. A couple of the high end MFG's that build their own series of boosters will work after some intermediate modifications are made. Most not for the faint of heart.

Find youself a Bendix Power Disc Brake Booster. Your connection rod/linkage off your factory power drum booster will bolt right to the Bendix, and will bolt right in to the pedal arm.

As far as the rest of the parts...Use one of those kits (minus booster), go higher end Wilwood/baer, or start hunting for the A/E body/cordoba disc brake parts...Even the Right Stuff Detailing calipers/Master Cylinder will work just fine with the Bendix booster on the firewall.
 
I just went with the Summit Racing front disc brake kit, which is really just a kit filled completely with SSBC components in Summit Racing packaging. I am running manual brakes, but the kit came with everything necessary for the change-over.
 
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