Power Steering Pump ID Help - Early Saginaw?

[watermelon]

Hi All,

Can someone look at the pic of my pump/reservoir? It looks like an early Saginaw based on some pics of the net.


I have a leak on the front botton side. Looks to be between pump and resevoir.

I am planning on replacing the o-ring/seal between the pump and reservoir case.

Anyone know a good source for a seal kit?


Any help is appreciated.


Thanks,

watermelon

 

[Billccm]

See the coronet 500 project by Jim Kuenemam. He bench rebuilt his Saginaw ps pump.

 

[PRND21]

Saginaw. Does it have a nut on the shaft? If not you'll need a puller if you want to replace the shaft seal.

 

[watermelon]

yep

it has a nut


i found a seal kit on classic industries. looks like it will work. anyone use this kit?

http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/1253550.html

 

[dieseldazzle]

I use the kit from steer and gear

 

[EARLY B]

Rockauto Autozone Napa

 

[watermelon]

yep^^^^

ordered from rock auto

gates 351160. only a drip every once in a while. gonna order kit. will put on some miles before i pull it out.

thnx

 

[moparsteve636]

N.A.P.A.

 

[RJRENTON]

YES....it is the early Saginaw pump. Steering and gear is a source for parts. Pay attention to the flow regulating valve, in addition to the high pressure relief valve and make sure that they are clean and the respective spools move freely. Pay particular attention to the pump vane orientation upon reassembly....they go in one way only....also the vane ring. AND USE ONLY HYDRAULIC OIL not automatic transmission fluid. I use an ISOVIS 32 hydraulic oil. It contains an antiwear, antifoam additive and also the ZDDP additive and is recommended for vane pump operation.
Bob Renton

 

[JimKueneman]

yep^^^^

ordered from rock auto

gates 351160. only a drip every once in a while. gonna order kit. will put on some miles before i pull it out.

thnx

Yup, same kit I ordered from them. Everything fit fine. Like above, the vanes have a rounded edge and a square edge (rounded edge is the sealing edge facing out) and the rotor the vanes fit into have sort of an arrow that is cut in half lengthways on the outer edge to indicate the rotation of the pump. It can work rotating backwards if the flip this rotor over and have the arrow pointing the other direction.

 

[watermelon]

gonna bump this

I have taken the nut off the pump but do i still need a pulley remover tool to get pulley off or just more heat from the blowtorch?

The pulley is on pretty good. I do see a keyway slot.

Gonna attach pic or orginal pump and new for reference.


Thanks for the help,

watermelon

 

[JimKueneman]

Have someone hold the pulley and give the shaft a few sharp love taps with a plastic hammer. If it is meant to come off without a puller (which I doubt since it has the ring to use the puller on) it should just drop out of the pulley.

[UPDATE]

May come off. It looks a lot like mine.

1968 Coronet 500 Project

 

[PRND21]

It should pop off the shaft like Jim said, unless it's rusted on. Then you'll probably have to use a puller. They aren't very expensive. The pulley can be bent easily if you get too rough with it.

 

[JimKueneman]

It should pop off the shaft like Jim said, unless it's rusted on. Then you'll probably have to use a puller. They aren't very expensive. The pulley can be bent easily if you get too rough with it.

Yes do not even think about using a jaw puller with the jaws wrapped around the pulley only pull on that center ring around the shaft with the special puller

 

[watermelon]

Hmm

im starting to think i have two different shaft styles between my old one and my new one. once i get this pulley off i can really tell.

gonna hit harbor freight n get a puller



thanks all

 

[watermelon]

just like i feared

the old pump shaft is keyed along with the pulley

the new pump shaft has the key machined off. the pulley fits onto the new shaft ok but the pulley spins on the shaft. damn.

oh well, this is where the tig welder comes into play. will weld a little key in.

 

[RJRENTON]

Watermelon,
There is an old welders saying: "thou shall not weld on cold rolled steel". Because of the small diameter shaft that is subjected to high torque, like turning the steering against the stops, causes the high pressure relief valve to open (1500-2000 psi) it is likely to be made from SAE 1045 cold rolled material. This is the reason for the keyed shaft and sheave.
Im sure you have welded using TIG, MIG OR EVEN STICK but usually what happens is weld chrystalizes the base metal, weaken it and when subjected to hi load, the weld fails. Opinion....get the correct part..or caviet emptor...
Bob Renton

 

[JimKueneman]

just like i feared

the old pump shaft is keyed along with the pulley

the new pump shaft has the key machined off. the pulley fits onto the new shaft ok but the pulley spins on the shaft. damn.

oh well, this is where the tig welder comes into play. will weld a little key in.

View attachment 411043 View attachment 411044

Why not just rebuild the original? The seal kit is less than $20 and you can get NOS vanes if you need them. There is really almost nothing to those pumps.....

 

[watermelon]

Watermelon,
There is an old welders saying: "thou shall not weld on cold rolled steel". Because of the small diameter shaft that is subjected to high torque, like turning the steering against the stops, causes the high pressure relief valve to open (1500-2000 psi) it is likely to be made from SAE 1045 cold rolled material. This is the reason for the keyed shaft and sheave.
Im sure you have welded using TIG, MIG OR EVEN STICK but usually what happens is weld chrystalizes the base metal, weaken it and when subjected to hi load, the weld fails. Opinion....get the correct part..or caviet emptor...
Bob Renton

That makes sense. I though these things just spun and didnt have a load on them. Dang. Was itchin to break out the tig.

Why not just rebuild the original? The seal kit is less than $20 and you can get NOS vanes if you need them. There is really almost nothing to those pumps.....

That makes cents. I bought the new pump n reservoir for near $50 in an effort to save $10 and some elbow grease. Dang. Was itching to break out the tig.


Thanks guys. Will hit Napa or Rock Auto.

 

[RJRENTON]

Watermelon,
When there is no load on the steering system (wheel straight ahead) the pump just basically recirculates the hydraulic fluid. When you turn the steering wheel, the flow regulator valve ports the oil to left or right power pistons in the steering box and increases the hydraulic pressure to overcome the resistance of the system. The TORQUE needed to do this is transmitted via the belt, sheave and pump shaft and is changed to hydraulic energy. As the pump shaft is a small diameter it is made from a higher strength material to withstand the twisting (torque) force. Thus endith the lesson on basic power steering hydraulic operation.....if your replacement part does not have a key way, get the correct part....do not weld it....either MIG, TIG, STICK....but this is just my opinion.
Bob Renton