Power Window Supply

[Mike Szadaj]

1968 Coronet. I am putting power windows in a car that didn't originally have them, using an OEM wiring harness. Where did the factory hook up the power supply wiring for power windows? The FSM has a diagram for the window wiring, but ends showing the supply marked as W1-12T, and then a note indicating "To Instrument Panel Wiring". I don't see any W1-12T on the instrument panel wiring diagram. I know 12T designates 12 gauge wire with tan colored insulation, but I don't see any W1 on the IP diagram. The FSM shows two fuses in the window harness circuitry, while mine uses one circuit breaker. This would make no difference. Because of this breaker the supply does not need to be fused. The ignition key had to be turned on for the windows to work, so the supply was controlled by the key.

 

[PlainfieldCharger]

That circuit breaker mounts on the AMP meter stud on the back of the gauge cluster.....

 

[Mike Szadaj]

I don't think that is what the factory did. First, the wires connected to the breaker are not long enough to get to the ammeter. Second, I could be wrong, but by connecting to the ammeter, wouldn't the windows work even with the key off? Third there is a male spade plug on the open leg of the breaker (as shown in the pic), indicating it was attached to a wire with a female plug. The FSM shows a breaker coming off the ammeter, but it looks like it is for a station wagon rear window lift. I haven't yet decided if I want the windows working without the key.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The system can get powered from the batt source but just working with key in RUN or ACC with the relay.

 

[Mike Szadaj]

The system can get powered from the batt source but just working with key in RUN or ACC with the relay.

What relay are you referring to?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I’m just saying you can get a device sourced from batt with key just in RUN with a relay, not saying the stock system gets a relay

 

[Mike Szadaj]

Right

 

[chtampa]

Each year was different. Some had the breaker mounted in the left kick panel pocket and some were mounted on the ammeter. Likely other places as well. I ordered a four relay panel from ARC to isolate the power window circuit and the power top circuit out of the bulkhead harness. Also ran the a/c system and the MSD Hemi 6 off of relays. The ammeter was changed to a voltmeter and now there is a lot less current inside.

 

[Mike Szadaj]

I like the idea of not pulling the power through the bulkhead connector, Nacho-RT74 and chtampa. Maybe I will run a wire from the starter relay through the firewall connected to the window breaker through a relay energized by the key in the run or acc position, as outlined by you guys.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

69 diagram... doesn't state the source, but just being TAN wire on harness, so should be some plug hanging around coming from the ACC side of the fuse box. Black is the ACC color at fusebox, then after the fuse uses to become in TAN on several Mopars. Now getting a breaker, could be sourced straight from the ACC bus bar without a fuse.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

from E body... I don't think way diff from earliers. As mentioned and I suspected but without confirm it, it gets a relay to be trigged ( I guess ) from acc circuit but powered from AMM stud