Preping Edelbrock E-Street heads OOTB?

[Malicious]

Hi all,

I wanted to get here at some point, but bad luck with the iron heads has seen me pick up a set of Alloy heads now instead of later. So I've picked up a set of Edelbrock E-Street 75cc heads, I've got a low comp engine so it had to be 75cc or less really!

Is there anything I should look at doing to these heads before installing them?

Time and money is short but I've lapped valves and ported iron and aluminium heads before, just need to know if they really need them or if they are good to go out of the box?

Thanks!

 

[silversedan]

Double check the valve guide clearance, also I had several sets of E heads and source heads that either the exh or intake valve job was off and had to touched up.

 

[Propwash]

What cam are you running? I've bought 2 sets of Eddy Performer RPM heads thus far and both set's advertised recommended max lift by Eddy did not jive with the open seat pressure of the valve springs when I checked. They were over-rated by Eddy. Pretty decent hardware, but not premium by any means. I changed both set's of heads locks, springs, retainers and valve guide seals to Comp Cams. The 3 angle valve job from eddy was ok, but I had a better/cleaner 15* 30* and 45* angle put into them. They can use some pocket porting/cleaning up in the bowls right off the bat. All in all, decent heads and right out of the box, considering you can look at the runner design into the valves and notice pretty easily how they're less restricted with geometry than the stock cast iron. Same goes for exhaust side. Definitely not the best, but not $2000 either. Sorry they're not a direct E-street comparison, but I can imagine they're not too far off base.

 

[Bigal75]

....I hope you didn't put away your credit card!

 

[Malicious]

So Propwash, would they be ok-same as / slightly better then stock iron heads? Both port and hardware?

As for the cam, its a Hughes whiplash flat tappet designed for low comp engines, nice idle - slight performance. So really its going to be pretty easy on the hardware. If I can help it, avoiding disassemble would be good, but if I have to do some port clean up then I'll have to. Id rather OOTB them now and build them up aggressively later in 1-2 years when I get a 6pack intake together to go on it.

Bigal75, mate that CC is locked away now! Can't piss the missus off any more, plus we just brought a house so cash is gonna get real tight! haha

 

[Propwash]

The ports are definitely better Malicious. As far as the hardware, i'd say it's a toss up. If I was in your shoes I would ask Hughes for the seat pressure recommendation for that cam. I would say the BB eddy hardware on the performer RPM heads are perfectly happy to the low .500's in lift. After that, i'd be changing things up for piece of mind. Mid to upper .500's the hardware need to go. If you can do some port clean up, i'd say go for it. Hope it help's, and your build spends many happy days burning up tires.

 

[Malicious]

Perfect. The should srrive tomorrow so I'll assess them once they arrive as to whether these need work.

Btw here's the can card:
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...V2hpcGxhc2ggTXVzY2xlIENhciBjYW1z&partid=30173

I've got pressed stock rockers so lift'l be low 5's should be ok. I have a set of docile iron rockers I want to change to at some point so maybe that's when I rip the heads off and update the spring, retainers and stem seals. Maybe some extra port love...

 

[66Satellite47]

I have the Performer RPM heads too, not E street, but for what it's worth I ditto Propwash. I had a low .500 lift cam (Comp XS274) and I'd say the stock Ede springs are just adequate for that. The bowls were MUCH better than stock on my RPM's. The engine builder (I bought the car complete) told me he re-did the guides before installation. I have since re-done the valve job to get a better bottom cut. There was a definite ridge in the chamber where the seat is pressed in. I ground a taper on the edge of some junk valves & smoothed out the ridge a little. That ridge seems like it would affect low lift flow significantly. That may come later for you. Take a look at them & go in steps as you can afford. Good luck. BTW the low compression will work OK, again take it in steps.

 

[lewtot184]

Perfect. The should srrive tomorrow so I'll assess them once they arrive as to whether these need work.

Btw here's the can card:
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...V2hpcGxhc2ggTXVzY2xlIENhciBjYW1z&partid=30173

I've got pressed stock rockers so lift'l be low 5's should be ok. I have a set of docile iron rockers I want to change to at some point so maybe that's when I rip the heads off and update the spring, retainers and stem seals. Maybe some extra port love...

that's a lot of cam for low compression.

- - - Updated - - -

eddie springs should be around 130lbs on the seat and adequate for low .500's lift. should be very good retainer to seal clearance.

 

[Propwash]

Hope it works out for you Malicious. Like these fella's said, take it in steps. Just like previously mentioned by others, that eddy hardware should be good in the low .500's.

 

[moper]

Personally i wouldn't install them without having the valve job checked and corrected. They usually suck as delievered from Edelbrock - especially in terms of seat runout and stem to guide clearnace. In terms of springs I think it's right on the boarderline. Hughes cams like to have decent spring presure - and it's that where the Edelbrock springs typically come up short. With the stamped rockers I think you're good - but when you get serious you should plan to go through them properly.

 

[moparbud66]

I was just shopping for heads today myself and was amazed at the number of RPM heads that are offered through Summit. Which ones did you get? One style requires adjustable rocker arms and 2 inch headers and may be in the way of vacuum advance distributors. I'm lost and need help.

 

[Malicious]

Heads didn't arrive in Friday. Little pissed about it. I'll check in when they arrive with some observations.

Moparbud66 the ones I got were 5090. Jump on the eddy website. I could only see the two, 75 and 88cc from memory. That might help clear up what you need.

 

[Malicious]

Head have arrived. I'll get some pics shortly. However I was reading through the instructions, while my son took 45 hours to eat his dinner, and I noticed they say in the instructions that I must use a specific bolt kit (theirs 8591). Question is, do I? Or is it marketing? Can I use my existing head bolts and get, say grade 8 washers to protect the head surface?

Mostly concerned about the time it's going to take to order those exact bolts.

 

[Malicious]

So the heads look good. I'm even more happy with the fact I can just screw bolts in by hand! No grot or grim binding the bolts. Should have done this from the start!

Definitely see what you mean about the castings. The ports have a basic cut to make it meet the port opening but there are some definite steps and casting marks. Having said that I reckon an hour worth of clean up would get these looking really good. Just need to decide if I want disassemble the heads to clean up the ports.

Also comes with studs to replace 4 (2 per head) long rocker shaft bolts. Arp units.

 

[IQ52]

Use the Edelbrock bolts or order ARP bolts for the factory iron heads as they are the same for the Edelbrock RPM.

 

[moparbud66]

The Performer RPMs say that they come with threaded inserts for durability. How about the E Streets? Do you think they will be just as durable without or are they actually in there and just not mentioned in the description?

 

[Malicious]

Definitely helicoiled as well. From what I can tell its the same head as the rpm, just less finishing and lower rated hardware. The instructions actually have the hardware part numbers so I'll post them up tonight. Thinking I might pop the valves and clean up the heads. I have to cut back part of the head anyway for the vac advance distributed. I'll post some pics and more details shortly.

 

[Malicious]

So the exhaust is helicoiled, the intake isn't.

I disassembled one of the heads and have all but finish porting one of the heads. I ran out of light and killed both the bits I was using. I'll finish it up tomorrow night. Here's a couple of pics of the ports behind the valves.

 

[mentor70]

i had Hughes CNC port my Stealths, they sold me a valve job, i assumed that they ched everything out, but when i had my local shop ck them out to set up my springs, they re-honed the valve guides, i noticed some drag when i got them back from Hughes, and sure enough, they needed more light honing.

better safe than sorry.