Probably a stupid question- iBoost electric brake booster

[Pool Fixer]

Ive seen numerous posts about adding power brakes, removing power brakes, adding hydroboost- basically every permutation of how the fluid gets to the calipers once you push the pedal.

Has anyone thought of adding an electric booster to thier mopar brake systems? I saw a guy on youtube did one using an Iboost from a honda accord which he claims is the same one used on Teslas. It didn't look like that hard of a swap. Maybe it's a stupid idea on a mopar but has anyone else thought it at least sounded good?

 

[Kern Dog]

I didn't know that these existed but it isn't far fetched. Vacuum boosters work fine in most cases and add zero impact to the electrical system.
One application where the electric booster may prove worthy is with a car that has low idle vacuum due to a large camshaft.

 

[Pool Fixer]

I didn't know that these existed but it isn't far fetched. Vacuum boosters work fine in most cases and add zero impact to the electrical system.
One application where the electric booster may prove worthy is with a car that has low idle vacuum due to a large camshaft.

It's been a few years since I checked but I believe I'm pulling about 10-11" of vacuum.

 

[steve340]

I have not really looked looked at it closely as both my cars have enough manifold vacuum to run a vacuum booster.
If you have low manifold vacuum it would be worth looking at.
Electric power steering seems to work on modern cars steering so why not on brakes.
I believe they are being used on hot rod builds.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Post a link to the youtube video you saw.

 

[RemCharger]

The 03-08 4 runners have them and seem to work great. But they are cumbersome looking

 

[Kern Dog]

I had to use a vacuum pump to provide enough power to energize my power brakes. It pulls right at 20" when the engine only pulls 10-11 at idle.
I need the booster since I have 4 wheel disc brakes that require far more pressure to stop the car than I was able to generate with a manual master cylinder. Believe me, I have tried NUMEROUS brake combinations and it has taken awhile to finally arrive where I am now. I've made some ill-informed choices in the long-shot hope that I could make unconventional things work.
They didn't.
Hydroboost is one that can get around poor idle vacuum. I tried that but had a bad HB unit I couldn't get to work right.

 

[Pool Fixer]

Post a link to the youtube video you saw.

68 mustang electric brakes

 

[Pool Fixer]

I had to use a vacuum pump to provide enough power to energize my power brakes. It pulls right at 20" when the engine only pulls 10-11 at idle.
I need the booster since I have 4 wheel disc brakes that require far more pressure to stop the car than I was able to generate with a manual master cylinder. Believe me, I have tried NUMEROUS brake combinations and it has taken awhile to finally arrive where I am now. I've made some ill-informed choices in the long-shot hope that I could make unconventional things work.
They didn't.
Hydroboost is one that can get around poor idle vacuum. I tried that but had a bad HB unit I couldn't get to work right.

I'm currently wrapping up dr diff 10.7" rear disc swap on my charger. years ago, I swapped out the front drums for the usual mopar 11.75"/A body spindle upgrade. pretty sure I don't need a new prop valve as my car is an original manual 4 wheel drum car. I have dr diff 13" cobra stage 3 kit for front but that is not installed yet... I'm doing this one at a time. I have not bled it or tested it yet but I've read your posts and it has me considering some "what ifs"

 

[Kern Dog]

I currently have the 13” front and 11.7” rear brakes from Dr Diff. No proportioning valve, just a distribution block. 15/16” master cylinder and a reproduction 1966-70 booster. This car stops better now than it ever has.

 

[Pool Fixer]

I currently have the 13” front and 11.7” rear brakes from Dr Diff. No proportioning valve, just a distribution block. 15/16” master cylinder and a reproduction 1966-70 booster. This car stops better now than it ever has.

I think I didn’t say it correctly. I don’t have any aftermarket prop valve, just the ma mopar distribution block with brake system wire on the drivers frame rail

Dr diff did send me a new one with my cobra kit. At the time I wasn’t sure if I’d do the rear discs. He had said if I was to do 4 wheel disc then leave the factory 4 drum dist block in place.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Think that swap has potential because space around master. Looks better than the crap @Kern Dog went through with hydro-boost.

 

[Pool Fixer]

Think that swap has potential because space around master. Looks better than the crap @Kern Dog went through with hydro-boost.

He did have to do a little fab on the brake pedal but that was a Ford.
And then there’s the bolt pattern and the firewall opening

I’ve seen them on eBay 300-800 bucks.

 

[Kern Dog]

I think I didn’t say it correctly. I don’t have any aftermarket prop valve, just the ma mopar distribution block with brake system wire on the drivers frame rail

Dr diff did send me a new one with my cobra kit. At the time I wasn’t sure if I’d do the rear discs. He had said if I was to do 4 wheel disc then leave the factory 4 drum dist block in place.

No, you wrote correctly and I understood. I may have just stayed my own combination without clearly acknowledging what you wrote.
I think we do understand each other though.

 

[Pool Fixer]

Post a link to the youtube video you saw.

Here is a different link. His guy out one in some British roadster… he’s very technical and goes deeper into the weeds than the mustang guy

More Tesla booster

 

[Pool Fixer]

got the rear of the car back together. Dr. diff 10.7" discs. It's def better than the how the drums used to be. I say used to be because when revived it after sitting 8 years, the fluid must have been contaminated and the pedal was soft with factory manual 11.75 discs front and 11' drums rear. After putting on the dr diff kit, bleeding, I get a nice firm pedal and stops good. I couldn't really beat on it because I also put a new 3.23 center section and the builder of that has instructions to drive it a few times easy and let it cool down.

I plan on putting the 13" cobra kit on the front soon. I'm curious to see if it's any better. everythng i've read says better but not life altering.

3.23's are much better for me than the 3.91's. trans used to shift kind of early or too late could never get that dialed perfect. Now it seems to shift just right. I have a cable kickdown maybe that's why? anyway, it's freakin cold here so I won't be test n tuning too much.

 

[HEMIB]

I normally use hydroboost for fast stopping i thought i would try the electric iboost system .
Thoughts total rubbish pedal feel all wrong like it has a huge spring in the master brake pedal travel was very limited,they say to mount the brake arm directly to the pedal arm using the ball joint provided the arm only has about 15degrees from centre the only way it would fit would be to drop the master down 2" on the firewall ,the Dodge cantilever system works .
Has no proportorning valve he said it is all internal ,its like a hydro boost with its own electric fluid pump which is quite after 2 brake presses it cuts in for about 2 seconds to boost the pressure the excess fluid from the pressure bypass returns to the 3rd reservior on the master cylinder it has 3 ports not 2 going back to hydroboost

 

[6872n73]

Found one in the Pull-A-Parts and I pulled it. It's sitting on the bench right beside the hydroboost that I was going to try until Kern.dog had his issues.
45$ so far and haven't wasted too many brain cells yet.