Pulling Rear Axles ?

[Mike Gaines]

I have a 66 Coronet and I am going to change the 8 3/4 rear end.
After I take of the wheel/tire combo and then the "plate" that holds the axle in place (plate that is locating behind the drum brake setup) when will I need and "axle puller" that might fasten on the lugs with the lug nuts with like a slide hammer setup to "yank" the axle out of the housing. I just don't think I can merely pull the axle out of the housing with my hand...the bearing have to come out of the race....???
LET ME KNOW PLEASE....

 

[68bigblock]

it been awhile I don't believe you need any special tools, it should have a cup and cone set up and once you remove the retainer plates they should slide right out

 

[terzmo]

I used a pry bar about 30 to 36 inches long...popped out

 

[Canyon707]

Do you need to open the differential and unbolt anything. I heard there is a bolt to undo on the Dana 60. I am planning on removing mine but have never done it before.

 

[Sixpactogo]

You don't need to remove the back plate.
If the drum is tight, you need to back off the brake adjuster to get the drum off. Remove the 5 nuts holding the axle plate and you should be able to pull the axle out by hand.
note: There is a large hole in the axle plate to access the nuts with a 9/16" socket and extension. Just turn the axle to line up for each nut and you are good to go.

 

[Cranky]

But if the axle is a little stubborn, you can put a bare wheel on with loose lug nuts then use the wheel as sort of a puller. Might have to jerk the wheel back and forth a few times to jar the axle loose if it's never been out before. Done this many times over the past 40+ years and have never needed a puller. Also, you may need to help the emergency brake bar up and over the axle retainer plate with a large screw driver as the axle starts to come out. And the Dana 60 and the 8 3/4 are set up the same as far as axles go. No need to dig into the diff. Can't do that anyways with the 8 3/4 until the axles are out.

 

[terzmo]

Do you need to open the differential and unbolt anything. I heard there is a bolt to undo on the Dana 60. I am planning on removing mine but have never done it before.

axels come out before center chunk

 

[MoparMitch]

But if the axle is a little stubborn, you can put a bare wheel on with loose lug nuts then use the wheel as sort of a puller. Might have to jerk the wheel back and forth a few times to jar the axle loose if it's never been out before. Done this many times over the past 40+ years and have never needed a puller. Also, you may need to help the emergency brake bar up and over the axle retainer plate with a large screw driver as the axle starts to come out. And the Dana 60 and the 8 3/4 are set up the same as far as axles go. No need to dig into the diff. Can't do that anyways with the 8 3/4 until the axles are out.

Can also do this by turning the brake drum around and using lug nuts just threaded on to the ends of the studs. Works good.

 

[rscurtis]

When you reassemble it, be sure to check the bearing end play. It should be .013-.023" IIRC.

 

[Cranky]

Can also do this by turning the brake drum around and using lug nuts just threaded on to the ends of the studs. Works good.

Yup, done that too but for ones that are more stubborn, a wheels usually works quicker because they are generally heavier. Problem is, not everyone has bare wheels laying around like I do lol

And Mike, do you not have a repair manual?? If not, why not?? Yeah, you can find a lot of info on the net but there's nothing like having a manual by your side when working on these old cars. Heck, even a manual on CD is good and you can make copies of the pages you need to take to the car and keep the book clean.

 

[Dako]

I have a 66 Coronet and I am going to change the 8 3/4 rear end.
After I take of the wheel/tire combo and then the "plate" that holds the axle in place (plate that is locating behind the drum brake setup) when will I need and "axle puller" that might fasten on the lugs with the lug nuts with like a slide hammer setup to "yank" the axle out of the housing. I just don't think I can merely pull the axle out of the housing with my hand...the bearing have to come out of the race....???
LET ME KNOW PLEASE....

Are you changing the complete rear end, or are you changing out the gear set (pulling the 3rd member...pig...chunk or any other slang term used)? If you are pulling the complete rear end, why take any of it apart?...just drop it assembled, as it is much easier to keep track of one part, vice many parts.

If it's the 3rd member you are ultimately changing, as 68 chicken mentioned the drum reversed with 3 lug nuts loosely on works great as a slide and is much more manageable. If you do not move the adjuster on the passenger side, and re-use all the original parts, it will go right back in adjusted to original specks...easy peazy. You will see, it is not that scary once you get it apart. Being careful when removing/ installing the axle shafts, you can also get away with reusing outer axle seals...saving time & money. Take lots of photos during the process. That way if you have further questions you can post them for reference. It is much more helpful when we know exactly what you are referring to. Good luck and be sure to update this link!

 

[SublimeSixpack]

Once in a while you may get one that is a little stubborn as already mentioned but generally they come out fairly easily just by pulling on the axle flange with your fingers.

I remove the top brake springs and the parking brake piece for clearance:



While the axle is out you may want to pack some new grease into the bearings:

 

[moparsteve636]

If nothing else works! Use a deadblow hammer and strike the center of the axel! be careful not to hit the studs!

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Take a length of chain, around 12 ft.+ and put the end link over a wheel stud. Hold it on the stud with a wheel nut. go to the other end of the chain and with leaving some slack, whip the chain so it jerks on the axle. This method will remove a stubborn axle..................MO