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Question: Dana 60 in 383 car?

norcal_mike

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I have an all stock h code 68 Charger with 383 4 barrel- the rear end is a 8 3/4 742 with 2.73 gears—

I have an date correct b-body dana with 3.54 suregrip which was meant for a 440 build— is it better to find a 8 3/4 3.23 suregrip or should i just use my dana?

Plans for the car is to keep stock for now but i want sure grip and more gear...
 
Only downside to the Dana is the additional weight I think? I say go for it. What happened to the 440?
 
Go for it. Why not? I guess you could go through the nuisance of selling it and getting the 8-3/4 you need. I guess it depends on how much you need/want the money vs the nuisance of peddling it.
 
I have an all stock h code 68 Charger with 383 4 barrel- the rear end is a 8 3/4 742 with 2.73 gears—

I have an date correct b-body dana with 3.54 suregrip which was meant for a 440 build— is it better to find a 8 3/4 3.23 suregrip or should i just use my dana?

Plans for the car is to keep stock for now but i want sure grip and more gear...
The diff you have is likely a 2.76. The 2.73 was a General Motors ratio.
The Dana will take almost anything that you can throw at it. The 8 3/4 is pretty durable too though. Unless you are going to use huge slicks and plan to dump the clutch frequently, the 8 3/4" axle will hold up fine. They used them behind automatic Hemi cars.
 
Since you have the dana, but would have to buy parts to make the 8 3/4 what you want, I would certainly put the dana in.
A dana in any mopar is a huge plus, in my opinion.
Edit: the only downside of the dana 60 used to be that 3.54 was the highest gear available, but Dr Diff now has 3.23s.
 
Question is why wouldn't you use it
 
You would likely come out more than a grand ahead if you sold the Dana and bought a good used 8 3/4 SG. Food for thought.
 
You would likely come out more than a grand ahead if you sold the Dana and bought a good used 8 3/4 SG. Food for thought.

Yeah but that's like saying you could be a few grand ahead if you sold your 426 Hemi and bought a good used 360 instead. To me having a Dana 60 is just "cool" to have. Sure, an 8.75 is good to go but a Dana 60 is the bees knees!
 
Put in the D-60 and save the 742 until you get the parts you want. Your 383 will love the 3:53's too!:thumbsup: I would keep both if it were me.
 
I’d go with the 8 3/4 if you don’t need the beefiness of a Dana to handle big HP. It’s nice to be able to swap pigs easily if you don’t like the gear. I have 4.10s for street fun but if I want to take a long trip for a weekend I swap the 3.23s and cruise. Only takes about 45min to an hour
 
I like the Dana too and like somebody asked, what happened to your 440 plan. If you do install the Dana, chances are high you will need to shortened your drive shaft a little.
 
The 440 and dana was for a 68 charger I was building ; however I came across an all original 68 Hcode charger and bought it from the original owner. I sold the other 68 as a roller and kept the 440 and dana 60. Because it’s original i was going to keep the 383 and put the 440 in my 70 barracuda.
 
Put the B body Dana in the Cuda. It being 2 inches narrower than the E rear will give it a little bit of extra tire clearance....
 
That was also an idea, just need to relocate spring perches I believe.
Move the front hangers all the ways against the frame. Use a hole saw for access to the eye bolt then use offset hangers for the rear. It's almost a true bolt in this way. If you don't want to keep a splayed leaf spring setup, you can fab a set of rear hangers to make them straight and this makes it a true bolt in. The main interference will be with the rear valance.....
 
Move the front hangers all the ways against the frame. Use a hole saw for access to the eye bolt then use offset hangers for the rear. It's almost a true bolt in this way. If you don't want to keep a splayed leaf spring setup, you can fab a set of rear hangers to make them straight and this makes it a true bolt in. The main interference will be with the rear valance.....

You’re referring to something like this:
https://www.yearone.com/Product/Chr...JfrejItBkxUaGKEHbqe17vhVKZBFKx5hoCvrEQAvD_BwE

I’m not quite sure what you mean by the front hangers - i’ll have to look to understand, i’m more of a visual person.
 
You’re referring to something like this:
https://www.yearone.com/Product/Chr...JfrejItBkxUaGKEHbqe17vhVKZBFKx5hoCvrEQAvD_BwE

I’m not quite sure what you mean by the front hangers - i’ll have to look to understand, i’m more of a visual person.
I moved the stock front leaf spring hangers right up against the frame rail but instead of drilling bolt holes etc, and just welded them in. Ya have to make an access/clearance hole to get the spring eye bolt in and then get to it with a socket. Didn't solid weld them but made 1" long welds where they were accessible with a small grinder in case they ever needed to come out. The E body cars came from the factory with 'splayed' rear springs. The rear hangers are actually a bit wider then the fronts which helps with cornering. Sort of a poor mans rear steering. When first hearing of it, I didn't believe it so measured it....on more than one car and yep, the distance of the rear spring eye to eye is a bit wider than the fronts are. Looking for a pic of the offset rear hangers I made.....because I sure can't find them right now. I sold the body to a guy that needed one and figured I've find another and he was offering big bucks at the time so all the stuff that was on it had do come off since he was going to make it stock.
 
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