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Question on installing rebuilt power brake booster?

AR67GTX

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I had my Midland single diaphragm booster rebuilt by Harmons and I’m in the process of reinstalling it. There’s a red cup insert on the front centering the pushrod and my questions is does this cup remove before bolting up the master cylinder or does it stay in place. It adds a slight drag on the push rod but maybe not enough to prevent the master cylinder from recovering fully.

Asking as there wasn’t a cup like this in place when I removed it. But I bought the booster used 20 years ago so I’m not sure if it stays or not. I studied the shop manual but it wasn’t clear as to this piece,

Thanks in advance.

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I hate to bump into your thread but I've got a 1970 Midland from a Road Runner that needs rebuilt. How did it go for you? Thank you. And sorry, but I haven't taken this one off yet so I don't know if that cup stays or you take it off.
 
In my opinion yes, it is removed. It is there too keep crap out of the vacuum chamber/front seal area untill you put the master on it.
 
I called him and he said take it out. It's for shipping.
 
Thanks 69Bee and Rickseeman, that makes sense.

Rickseeman- Harmon turned it around quickly. They said 4 weeks but it was not quite 3 before it was in shipping back. About $330.

:thumbsup:
 
Agreed
Shipping retainer is all.

Without it the rod will pull out / fall out of the booster


PS, Midland Ross boosters are supposed to be yellow zinc plated.
Not painted black

MidlandRoss.jpg
 
It’s been black a long time so I’m OK with it.
 
You have to specify if you want it plated or painted. Plating is quite a bit more expensive. A while back I had a Midland Dual Diaphragm A Body rebuilt by Harmons. It is beautiful, it looks better than new. I haven't installed it yet.
 
My car was originally manual brakes and I came across this used booster and linkage decades ago (black back then) and added it. The car was PS, auto, AC originally and I figured PB filled out the illusion somewhat of the Banker’s muscle car. But I figured cad plating would make this a $600 repair versus $300 and saw no reason to do that since it’s not even an original feature to the car.
 
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