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Questions on an Edelbrock carb?

AR67GTX

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Hopefully someone with some experience with Carter/Edelbrock carbs can answer a couple questions.

On my GTX I rebuilt the #1412 800 cfm carb earlier in the year and it was running really well until recently when it developed an off-idle stumble. I pulled the carb off this morning to look it over and when I worked the throttle I got nothing from the accelerator pump squirters. I pulled the top and looked at the plunger and all that was there was the plastic tan holder and shaft and no plunger seal. First thought was crud, how did I forget that in the rebuild and then I realized it had been running good until recently and that would not have been the case without the umbrella cup installed. When I pulled out the spring and looked in the bottom of the well, the blue rubber/neoprene/whatever(?) umbrella cup was lodged down in the very bottom. Pulled it out stuck it back on the plunger and under the 4 fingers and it's running like a champ again.

Anyone had a problem with these accelerator pump cups coming off the plunger before? Is there a better accelerator pump umbrella seal to use? I used an Edelbrock rebuild kit from Summit.

Also, all the instructions say to set the accelerator plunger with the idle speed screw backed out, to where the top of the shaft is 13/32 inch above the top of the carb top. That's about where mine would be if I put the rod in the middle hole but the Edelbrock instructions call for the rod to be in the top hole on the #1412 - which would result in maximum stroke for big engines. That puts the top of the shaft way above 13/32 inch on mine. Can anybody think of a reason I should bend the rod link to lower the plunger to this dimension? It seems all it would do is possibly shorter overall plunger travel. There's no delay in pump response.

Possibly there is some connection with the seal coming off and this high setting???
 
Probably the rubber material is having issues with the ethanol gas. I have had to replace floats and seals on these carbs. The floats I replaced were completely delaminated and pieces of this "brass" coating were all over the inside of the bowls. I had one of their mech pump diaphragms completely disintegrate on me with gas getting into the crankcase. Still like the carb design but yes double check all soft parts in there as they don't play well with modern gas.
 
Probably the rubber material is having issues with the ethanol gas. I have had to replace floats and seals on these carbs. The floats I replaced were completely delaminated and pieces of this "brass" coating were all over the inside of the bowls. I had one of their mech pump diaphragms completely disintegrate on me with gas getting into the crankcase. Still like the carb design but yes double check all soft parts in there as they don't play well with modern gas.
This is good to know. I have a model 1805 (Thunder AVS) on the way for my 440 from Summit.
I'll make a point of only getting non-ethanol gas for the GTX once this is installed!
 
I ran 2 edelbrocks on my AMX for almost 20 years........ the only issue I ever had was after long periods of sitting, the rubber on the accelerator pumps seemed to "shrink" after the gas evaporated. This caused me to have to pour a little fuel down the throats to start the engine....... the accelerator pumps always came back to life within an hour or so
 
The blue umbrella seal looked like new when I pulled it out (only about 8 months old) but my carb does dry up quickly and after 4 or 5 days of sitting I have to prime it to start or sit there and grind on the starter for a long time. I don't like cranking a cold engine for a long time plus you know how Mopar starters sound on a long crank - not good. But drying out and sticking in the bore is a possibility for how it pulled off the shaft. It seems I remember from a post somewhere that a different type of accelerator seal could be found - maybe from a Carter rebuild kit or something.
 
As a follow up - it did dawn on me one evening, why I should not leave the accelerator pump set higher than the instructions. I remembered the accelerator pump well is fed by a small notch in it's side that opens to the driver side float bowl. As the accelerator pump is activated it goes past the notch and seals it off during the stroke. If the accelerator pump is left high it probably pumps part of the contents of the well back into the fuel bowl before it finally travels below the notch. That would provide a weak fuel response from the shooters.

So, I dropped my adjustment back to the middle hole which lowered it and I'll see how that does.
 
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