Quick ignition wire question

[Hankohop]

Hey guys, dealing with some issues under the dash. Real Quick question. On a 1969 B body, should the brown ignition 2 wire have power with the key in the on position?
Blue wire with white tracer, ignition 1, fried up on me and I'm worried it may have fried my ignition switch.
Thanks for any feed back.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Brown, ignition 2, should have power while cranking only. Ballast resistor by-pass.

 

[Hankohop]

Ok, thank you very much!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

ok lets see... while brown and Blue wires are plugged to ballast BOTH remains hot on both Ign stages, just at diff levels.

In RUN, Browns keeps at around 4.5 to 9 volts depending on engine temp and load sucked by the coil, while blue feeds 12 volts.

In START, Brown gets full 12 volts from ign switch, while even the blue wire is cut by Ign switch, the ballast feeds it back on 4.5 to 9 volts rate. Thats why you can see brake light on cluster dimming ( and oil if idiot light ). This is the voltage rate the ECU gets while you are cranking

Now if you disconect the ballast, both are being feeded JUST by the ign switch and Brown gets power just in START and blue just in RUN

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

On a fully intact and functional system, coil primary voltage will be seen on the brown wire at the switch. Full battery voltage is present in start only. For purpose of diagnosing an ignition switch, as I understand the original question, let me rephrase. While ignition switch is disconnected, there should be continuity through the ignition switch between the battery feed (red wire) and the Ign 2 terminal (brown wire) in the start position only. And continuity between the battery feed and the blue/white wire terminal in run only.