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RB rear main seal

1966satellite

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Has anyone replaced the rear main seal on a 440 with the engine still in the car? Is it possible and are there any tricks I need to know before attempting it?
 
I've done several. Never had to pull the transmission. Drop the steering. It's possible that on some cars you might have to jack up the motor for clearance to get the pan past the K member, but on the earlier cars, didn't even have to do that. Do a search on this site. Also, a factory service manual would be a big help. Have fun...
 
I've done several. Never had to pull the transmission. Drop the steering. It's possible that on some cars you might have to jack up the motor for clearance to get the pan past the K member, but on the earlier cars, didn't even have to do that. Do a search on this site. Also, a factory service manual would be a big help. Have fun...

Open mouth insert foot ! I never even thought of that duh 4 bolts but my question did you have the fan removed when you did this I'm guessing yes!?? Along with all exseries ?
 
KD Tools makes a Seal puller and installer your going to need to search for this. I have one prolly bought 30 years ago. can be done and is done in car.
 
The KD part number is 492 this is for a wick seal if for split seal just loosen crank and slide in
do not line up the joint with the block roll around 1/2 inch
 
I would have someone who has put one in prior do it. Lots of heartache threads on this. Mine does not leak because the Mopar guy who installed it knew what he was doing.
 
I did it several times on my 69 RR. That has a 383 instead of the 440, but I think the bottoms of the 2 are the same.
 
Open mouth insert foot ! I never even thought of that duh 4 bolts but my question did you have the fan removed when you did this I'm guessing yes!?? Along with all exseries ?

Like I said, on the early cars, I didn't need to jack up the motor. Even if you need to, it would depend on how much. Obviously if you needed to jack it up very far, you'd have to loosen the shroud or remove the fan (rather do that than the transmission). Wouldn't be a need to take off any accessories.
If someone replaced the seal with a rubber one, you can carefully use a small screwdriver to ease the top half of the seal far enough out to grab it with pliers. Pay close attention to installing the new one facing the right direction and, as stated above, stagger the mating joint so it's not aligned with the seal cap parting line.
If replacing with a rope seal, the 'Sneaky Pete' is a necessity.
Have fun...
 
The hard part about removing the pan is the pick up tube and the proximity of the K member. The seal itself should be pretty straight forward. And don't forget to put sealer at the seal cap parting lines and the outside edges.
 
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