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Rear axle alignment issue, whats causing this problem.

idrivemopar

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So, I didn't think there was anything wrong with my axle setup until I put on the big 15x10's with 295 50s.

Here is the problem, drivers side has 1/4 inch clearance between leaf and side wall both front and rear of the tire. Passenger side has 1/4 inch clearance on the rear between leaf and side wall, but the front side rubs on the leaf.

I checked the axle perch to axle end cap, and passenger side is 1/8 inch closer, but that does not explain why it sits funny.
Checked center to center on the perches and its 1/8 inch off.
Checked the center post on the leaf spring, its the same on both sides.
Checked the front leaf mount distance to frame rail, and its the same both sides.

Any recommendations?
 
How much room between the wheel lip & tire? Also,1/8 is not enough room so when the tire flexes it will rub.
Depending how much tire clearance,you might need to space the rim out a tad.:angel3:
 
There is 1/4 inch between leafs and tire sidewall, except on the passenger side where the tire rubs on the front of the leaf, but the rear has 1/4 inch clearance. So, passenger side is not aligned where clearance is correct on both front and back of tire to sidewall.

Not sure what you mean about the wheel lip to tire distance.
 
If you used a 1/4 inch spacer,that would move the tire out by 1/4 inch,how much room between the wheel lip and the tire?
 
that's not my concern at the moment, its the fact that the passenger side wheel is clocked at an angle to the leaf spring where as the drivers side is straight, so need to figure that out first.
 
I was thinking that, but I will have to put some narrower wheels on the back so I can drive it.
 
You could have a bent axle tube? Is the rear end a posi and original to the car? If so has the car ever been hit on the passenger side that you are aware of?
 
As far as I know it was never hit on that side. The other thing is the axle in the car is not original 8 3/4 because it was replaced in the 80's. This one has had new ends put on because they were heavily scored, but the perch to perch measurement is correct. I'm thinking something is bent, aside from the 1/8 inch difference but supposedly the guy that did the new ends has a jig for the axle housing. I need to find an unmolested 8 3/4 rear end so I can check some measurements.
 
My bet is bent axle housing, or end flange not square with the housing..............................MO
 
That wheel could be bent. I bought a set of wheels that were custom made and one was welded out of true.
 
run a strait edge down the sides of both tires and measure across between fronts of tires and rear ot tires if it dont match bent housing.
 
That wheel could be bent. I bought a set of wheels that were custom made and one was welded out of true.

Even though these are brand new wheels, this was one of the first things I checked, so I switched wheels from side to side and same result on the passenger side. Also, if the wheel was bent I'm sure that would have been found when the tires were mounted. I think maybe I have a bent flange on the axle, its slight, but if you extend that out 15 or 16 inches, then it becomes noticeable. Other issue is the distance between the perch and the end of the axle is 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch narrower on the passenger side.
 
have you jacked up the rear of the car and checked for bent axle issues. i had a similar problem and couldnt figure it out until i took both rear wheels off the ground and started the car and let it idle while the wheels spun. very obvious i had a bent axle.
 
No, have not checked that yet, but either way, most likely going to need to find another 8 3/4 housing for 73/74 RR, due to the shortness on the passenger side.
 
Several years ago I made up a pair of 15x8 rallye wheels for a 71 Cuda and decided to take some measurements on each side. Keep in mind that this car had never been wrecked either but, I had to move the center of the right side wheel in 3/16" to make more room between the tire and the spring. Other words, each wheel had a slightly different offset. Yeah, I mounted tires on the unwelded wheels to check this....and looks really funny to see a mounted tire on a wheel with no center. On another car, a 70 Challenger, I bought a trim piece that goes all the way across the back of the car...and covers the area just above the taillights but the dang thing was 1/4" too long for this particular car. Funny thing is, it fit another Challenger I had that already had this same trim piece from the factory. That tells me these cars had a pretty hefty tolerance back then. I would start with a 4 wheel alignment check to see where things are and go from there.
 
Yep, understand the 4 wheel alignment check, but it shouldn't be off this much. I will have to do some more measuring to make sure the housing has the proper length and go from there I guess. Just another frustrating problem.
 
if the end were replaced at one time,my guess would be the culprit is there.a bent wheel would hit on one side and then the other if spun 180 degrees.only the axle or the mounting can cause it to hit in one spot.if you measure from the leading edge of the axle flange to the front spring perch do you get the same or diff #'s?
 
Kinda wasting your time, if the frame is tweeked. I'd check it first. If the frame is out of sorts, it will throw everything else off.
 
I've seen people weld on bearing housings without using a bar and when you do that, there's no guarantee that it's even near square but generally, if it's close, it'll be ok. What it will do is make the bearing wear faster which is part of the reason so many have problems with the Green bearings IMO. They can't take misalignment like a Timken can. I've even found factory bearing housings to be out a bit....

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