green 66
Well-Known Member
HI GUYS-Whats the best way to remove rear axle bearings?:iamwithstupid:
rear axle bearings
- Thread starter green 66
- Start date
green 66
Well-Known Member
do you need long arms on puller-replacing fact with greenies?
Meep-Meep
дворянин
Or, you can use the gorilla method. Set the axle in a Vee fixture (a cut piece of heavy wall angle iron welded to a piece of box tube) with the Vee right under the collar. Then get a big chisel (like 8" long) and a 5 lb hammer and smack the collar dead center on the axle centerline with the chisel imprint parallel with the axle centerline. Roll the axle a few degrees and hit it again. Every hit will expand the collar and it will eventually fall off without a press. You can speed the process up by cutting the collar with a hack saw to the point it almost cuts through to the axle and then hit the cut with a chisel, thus further expanding and even breaking the material.
To remove the bearing you can do a similar method. Cut the roller retainer with dykes and remove it and the rollers. Use an abrasive cut off wheel and slice through the bearing race until you almost get to the axle shaft (but don't cut into the axle shaft). Take the chisel, preferably an old one because the end will get damaged, and strike the curt area while the race is supported in the Vee block fixture. It's more important than you know to provide rigid support directly under the area that you strike. If done properly the hard bearing race will split at the cut line after a few hits releasing tension on the shaft and you can work it off from there. Yes it's crude and takes some time but it works. Plus it involves implements of destruction so how fun is that?? Just keep your thumb and other appendages out of the mix!
To remove the bearing you can do a similar method. Cut the roller retainer with dykes and remove it and the rollers. Use an abrasive cut off wheel and slice through the bearing race until you almost get to the axle shaft (but don't cut into the axle shaft). Take the chisel, preferably an old one because the end will get damaged, and strike the curt area while the race is supported in the Vee block fixture. It's more important than you know to provide rigid support directly under the area that you strike. If done properly the hard bearing race will split at the cut line after a few hits releasing tension on the shaft and you can work it off from there. Yes it's crude and takes some time but it works. Plus it involves implements of destruction so how fun is that?? Just keep your thumb and other appendages out of the mix!
bm02tj
Well-Known Member
you can be a farmer and use a cutting torch and if you are good you will not harm axle
and you can re install with a pipe the right size with a BFH and to make it easier put the axle in the freezer over night and the bearing in the oven about 250F and it will almost fall on have pipe and hammer ready
or hire a shop to do the work
and you can re install with a pipe the right size with a BFH and to make it easier put the axle in the freezer over night and the bearing in the oven about 250F and it will almost fall on have pipe and hammer ready
or hire a shop to do the work
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