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Rear disc brakes??

Gary_gtx67

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Hey guys I am getting my 1967 Plymouth gtx clone back from paint and body soon and I am wondering if anybody what is needed in order convert the rear to disc? Fronts have already been converted.
 
Rear brake kit
Depending on the calibur type and size disc you decide to put on determine the cost. Just keep in mind that some require 17 or 18" wheels
 
I guess what I'm asking is if I were to go to the junkyard what car or truck do I need to pull the parts off of in order to do the conversion for the rear? I am already planning on running a 17'inch wheel.
 
The only factory setup I can think of that's close to a direct bolt on is the 74 or 75 Imperial discs. The only problem with those is they are as rare as hen's teeth and replacement rotors don't exist. The parts store brake books don't even show that year Imperial!!

I have a set I will be putting on my 69 RR eventually and that's only because I'm crazy; I have the parts and a lathe and mill so I can fabricate stuff!!
 
Hhhhhmmmm..... That's helps a little. Well fig nutons!! Well what about these kits that you can buy online shurley they are using a common brake pad and rotor? This much rouble is it even worth converting the rears? I have already converted the fronts.
 
Front disc's, rear drums, dont fool with it. The rear disc's would be more for looks than anything.
 
A lot of ways to do brakes.

Rear disc are good.Yes they stop you faster,shorter stopping distance.

But I have one really bad experience with rear disc. They warp very easily when they get wet from rain or at a car wash. And depending on parts you use can be hard to find or expensive to replace.

You want to stop faster with out rear disc there are ways to do it one is Hydroboost which can be modified with parts from a junkyard. There is a company that specializes in front and rear drum brakes that has come up with a way to cool the brakes for a 10-20% increase in stopping power. Here is a link.

http://www.musclecarbrakes.com/
 
When you brake the weight transfers to the front. Most of your braking is done by the front wheels, which is why many vehicles come with front disk/drum rear. I agree with 5.7 hemi - unless you are making a road racer, rear disks are primarily for looks.
 
Cheapest way to do it is using the scarebird stuff. They make a bracket and give you a parts list. Uses a lot of inexpensive GM brake parts available everywhere. Should only cost about $450 to do all 4 wheels
 
I know that Stainless Steel Brakes corp makes a nice set up for thats works on 8 3/4 & Danas. Not sure about the prices but they are very high quality.
 
Well I'm not worried about the front cause I have already done the coversion there and boy did that make big differnce!!
 
I have Stainless Steel Brakes front and rear looks good and stops better about 550.00 for the rear kit
 
i forget what years jeep it is on but I've heard of a usable brake kit off a jeep where you only need to drill the 5th bolt hole. on an 8 3/4 anyways.
 
I know that Stainless Steel Brakes corp makes a nice set up for thats works on 8 3/4 & Danas. Not sure about the prices but they are very high quality.

I used the SSBC fronts and stopping from a trap speed over 130mph is no longer a problem or in bumper to bumper.I will look into rear disc when stopping gets difficult again,maybe 150 or 160 mph:tongue8:There are several rear set ups that use the GM single puck Eldorado style caliper,they were junk on the new cars and doubt they are any better now:glasses6:
 

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There are several rear set ups that use the GM single puck Eldorado style caliper,they were junk on the new cars and doubt they are any better now:glasses6:

LOL x2 on that one. Man I hate those calipers.

Unless you're going to do some heavy repeated braking or going for looks, stick with the drums. I know that a lot of rear kits out there require you to switch over to green bearings, also.

The junkyard Jeep disc setup isn't as simple as drilling the 5th hole. There are some spacing issues with the axle on an 8 3/4 rear.
 
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