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Removing Ivy-Like Roots From Brick & Concrete

Dibbons

Dibbons

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La Paz, B.C.S., Mexico
I need to paint a bare concrete wall. However, a neighbors vine type plant shot over the top of the fence and planted its "roots" solidly on the crater-like imperfections of the concrete surface. A wire brush knocked off the root hairs, but there remains these tiny footprint like things that won't let go. I hope I don't have to resort to burning them down, but might have to. I'm going to try softening them up first with a soap and water mix.

I don't know what the guy is doing in the video. Is that a fire under there?

 
I'd think washing it down and stiff-brushing it with a plant killer product to soak in, rinse off, dry, then apply a sealant paint for concrete would do the trick. This guy is dealing with brick & mortar I'd doubt he's going to paint over if I follow you...though there are transparent brick sealants like I've used on my house. There are various coatings that offer this type of protection.
 
It looks like there is heat involved in that video.

I'd bet a good pressure washer would do the trick.
 
A pain in the azz. I still have grape vine tentacles on my brick and stucco from years ago.. A wire brush is hard on the brick and mortar. Pick them off by hand.
 
You rip them down by hand, chemically kill and/or dig out the roots, then then pressure wash the little "tentacles" that attached them to the brick.
If you choose to use chemicals like Roundup to kill the plant, spray the leaves first, let the plants die, then use rubber gloves when touching any sprayed material. Roundup kills by preventing plants from absorbing protein, starving them to death. It can do the same thing to you...or make you grow a third nut, or worse. Don't get it on your skin, and for SURE don't breathe any.
 
Mark Barnes said:
You rip them down by hand, chemically kill and/or dig out the roots, then then pressure wash the little "tentacles" that attached them to the brick.
If you choose to use chemicals like Roundup to kill the plant, spray the leaves first, let the plants die, then use rubber gloves when touching any sprayed material. Roundup kills by preventing plants from absorbing protein, starving them to death. It can do the same thing to you...or make you grow a third nut, or worse. Don't get it on your skin, and for SURE don't breathe any.
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All great advice...the 3rd nut? Hmm...could be an attraction for some gals no? LOL
 
Can't really power wash because what we have here is a thin layer of cement over cinder blocks. That thin layer is fragile, sometimes falls off on its own.

stubborn vine roots 1.JPG stubborn vine roots 2.JPG
 
Might be time for a light coating of sand-impregnated masonry paint then....
 
3 parts water, 1 part bleach and a little dish washing soap !
 
I'd bet this stuff will encapsulate and seal it. I've used it to seal foundation cracks that USED TO LEAK.
Great stuff.

853517006368.jpg
 
I dont think you will ever get it all off do to what you have there.I paint exteriors all the time and we wire brush it and power wash it and you can never get it all off. I like PPG Permacret exterior paint over SW Loxon XP-to thick.
 
Dibbons said:
Can't really power wash because what we have here is a thin layer of cement over cinder blocks. That thin layer is fragile, sometimes falls off on its own.

View attachment 1080202 View attachment 1080203
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I sell paint for a living. You have a a separate issue besides the ivy growth. You mentioned that you have a parge coat ( thin layer of cement) over your blocks, that sometimes falls off on it's own. The biggest cause of paint failure is painting over a weak surface that is not adhering to the substrate. In your case, I would recommend power washing and removing all of that parge coat that comes off by power washing. Then use a good bonding masonry primer that will seal in the block and prep the surface for a top coat. For a top coat, you can use a good elastomeric texture paint. The texture will blend in anything remaining from the parge coat and fill in the uneven blocks. Elastomeric paint is very flexible and does not delaminate from the surface by normal expansion and contraction with weather changes. It also waterproofs from any wind driven rain.

That's the recommendation I make to do it the right way. If you just paint right over the loose parge coat, the parge coat might just come off from rolling.
 
Yes agree if it is loose you do need to remove it. Its like anything you paint,its all in the prep work.
 
You are all correct. However, just trying to save what's left from falling off for now. Repairs and a re-do down the line. Using local Mexican labor (cheap?) I can afford to wait.
 
Dibbons said:
You are all correct. However, just trying to save what's left from falling off for now. Repairs and a re-do down the line. Using local Mexican labor (cheap?) I can afford to wait.
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If you just want to do a cosmetic repair, touch the surface as little as possible, so as not to disturb the loose parts. Once the ivy is removed, hit those brown spots with some rattle can stain killing primer spray paint. Then, if you have access to a sprayer or even buy an inexpensive electric airless sprayer (under $100) since it's a small job, spray the topcoat on. Rolling might break that parge coat off.
 
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