• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Repair of lead area?

Mattias

Mattias

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:28 AM
Joined
Aug 11, 2017
Messages
164
Reaction score
24
Location
Sweden
I could see small small cracks in the area between A-posts and upper cowl on my Coronet -66. I thought it would be easy to blast the area and weld the cracks, BUT I discovered a lot of lead in the area with rust under it... Now I have understood that this is how it was done from the factory? The cracks should be quite common here I guess? How have you done your repair work? All experiences and pictures would be appreciated.
5.jpg
4.jpg
6.jpg
 
I melt it out with a propane torch, clean up the rust, weld anything that needs it...…… fill it with either all-metal (I prefer marine-tex) go over it with some filler and move on...…. make sure surface is nice and "rough" so all metal grabs, then make sure the all metal is rough so the filler grabs...….. I have had adhesion issues with all metal, under and over
 
Well, I'm semi-retarded and put the lead back (ahem, usually) but whichever way you go, I concur with the boys above, you'll need to dig the lead out and make your rust repairs first.
 
Thanks a lot for sharing your experiences. I think I will go the way, blasting-welding-priming-fibreglass filler-filler-paint...
 
All metal fillers will be more stable in the long run. If your fiberglass fill is too thick it may come back to haunt you. For the service these cars see after they are restored either would be fine.
 
I don't know about the glass and resin, I don't think it has enough bonding strength
to hold up! I would melt out all of the lead, wire brush the rusty areas untill it is clean,
and put some "Johnson's Tinning compound on the base metal to "Tin" it. Wipe off
all of the black acid with a damp cloth and then star "puddeling" some lead or tin
filler metal back in with a small gas torch (not propane). I use a Victor J-27 with a small
tip as not to get too much heat. When finished, it will be a very strong joint. Again, the
factory used this material because it was the best for bonding and held up this long.
 
I have 25 year old marine tex repairs that look as good as the day I did them...…. if it weren't so pricey, I'd use it as body filler
 
The key to that type of repair is getting it cleaned up with the rust removed to clean metal. If you don't and most won't have lead to replace damage with. I would go with the marine filler for the deep repairs then final top coat with high quality plastic filler. Having a nice v shape to the channel is also helpful more surface area for the repair to stick to. I would carefully look at the windshield channel also suspect water getting in between lead and parent metal, lead doesn't rust.
 
Mattias said:
Is this the same type of filler as "All Metal" (I saw someone used that is some other thread)? Hope I can get my hands on this in Sweden.....
Click to expand...


no...…. I have used both, I prefer marine tex; but all metal is good too...… as stated, I have had adhesion issues with all metal; but only when a helper put it over metal that was not roughed up properly. Also seen body filler peel off of all metal when the all metal was not roughed up properly, a fresh 24 grit disc works fine, the rougher the better
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DC67
Need Help With Body Work / Rust Repair
Replies
18
Views
2K
DC67
DC67
A
Cracks in front frame rails under K frame mounting points
2
Replies
27
Views
2K
j-c-c-62
J
RRusty72
Plan of attack for rust repair
Replies
18
Views
2K
1968rt
1968rt
M
'65 Belvedere 2 Door Post Rust Repair with 4 Door Donor Car?
Replies
2
Views
389
Mopar Muscle
M
P
  • Locked
FOR SALE 1970 Burnt Orange Automatic Console Shell
Replies
0
Views
502
Psycho Dad
P
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top