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replaced rear seal twice, still leaking...

blackblazer717

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hey y'all, its been a while... mostly due to me workin on the 74. anyway, got the engine running (.040 over 440) 3 weeks ago for the first time.
rear main seal was leaking, no biggie, tore it down replaced it with a MP one. put it all back together. and it leaks STILL!!! and no i didnt install it wrong or whatever...
any idea whats making this thing leak as bad as it does? i mean, you start it, wait a few seconds and it starts dripping. i mean come on!!! its not exactly a fast fix...
let me know what y'all input is. thanks a bunch
its a stock style seal cap as well, not the mancini one, which if i halfto do this again i may as well upgrade too...
Luke
 
Better Seal

I have never had any luck with the later MP seals. The last motor i did i used Dvorak Machine's seal, worked awesome. Just Google Dvorak, he's in Fla. or call 352-468-1353 (not cheap, but they work). 440 Source also has the Viton side seals. :glasses2:
 
hey y'all, its been a while... mostly due to me workin on the 74. anyway, got the engine running (.040 over 440) 3 weeks ago for the first time.
rear main seal was leaking, no biggie, tore it down replaced it with a MP one. put it all back together. and it leaks STILL!!! and no i didnt install it wrong or whatever...
any idea whats making this thing leak as bad as it does? i mean, you start it, wait a few seconds and it starts dripping. i mean come on!!! its not exactly a fast fix...
let me know what y'all input is. thanks a bunch
its a stock style seal cap as well, not the mancini one, which if i halfto do this again i may as well upgrade too...
Luke

Could be a lot of things. Neoprene on a knurled crank can be a problem. Rope on a non knurled crank can be an issue.

Here's an interesting read -

Posts: 1,153

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Better to be a "has been", than a "never was"



Potential Rear Main Oil leak.
« on: November 03, 2007, 12:00:31 PM »

Here's something for you guys to watch out for if you assemble your own engines.

I wasn't gonna post this, dunno if there is a need or not.

Anyways, I just can't be small minded enough to believe, that something I know, should be kept to myself, just because I'm "in the business", or,
that I may have "proprietary" reasons with certain individuals on this Site, NOT to dosclose for ALL to benefit.
I just ain't built that way !

That just wouldn't be in the what I'll call "spirit", of a bunch of Old Mopar lovers plunk'in away on a keyboard on this Site.
We should be here to SHARE, and HELP each other !

That has to be the bottom line for my presence here as well.

Anyways, put it under "TECH", or wherever it "fits".

We'll leave the specifics of block castings, date of manu, casting plant info, out of this discussion. Suffice to say, that could be a NOVEL unto itself, and I'm always too long-winded anyways.

Let's just say checking "this", should be on everyones list during assembly of all BB Mopars.

We've seen it on dozens of BB Mopars with REAR MAIN LEAKS, after assembling Hundreds.

There exists a manufacturing defect in many BB castings, in that the groove that holds the Rear Main Seal in the Block, is "offset", or rather, NOT CONCENTRIC with the Crankshaft Centerline(mains).

It can be very subtle, or obvious, and a standout to the eye at first glance when you been doing them awhile.

Obviously, if the Rear Main Seal half is installed in these "off-center" blocks, depending upon the degree of the defect in the particular block, the Lip seal compression on one side, (typically the Passenger side of the Block from factory), is insufficient, resulting in a delayed Oil Leak, until the Oil temp increases sufficiently to warm and deflect the neoprene seal.

The "FIX", involves firstly, looking for & recognizing this defect before you get a puddle on the floor. That is why during assembly it must be checked. Put in on your "TO DO" list !

We've forgot about it, and had "oily Shoe-sees" a few times over the decades !

Install The rear main lip seal half in the block "flush" with the cap parting line.
Install the Crank.
If your Lip Seal compression on one side, is less than the other under close inspection with a light, with the Crank in the block, you have a potential for a leaky main.
Gently, using a small screwdriver, GENTLY, insert it behind the offending side of poor compression, and "eyeball" the amount required to equal Lip compression "side to side".
DO NOT damage the back of the seal with the screwdriver. It doesn't take much.
Record the amount required to move the lip seal into equal compression.

Now dis-assemble.

Re-assemble this time, with the Block side Rear Seal lip half protruding approx. 1/4" above the parting line on the offending side.
Reverse the same Seal offset installation in the Retainer.
Now use the Retainer when installing, to CAPTURE and DRAG the offending poor contact side over into proper seal lip compression, the same amount as you recorded earlier, as you Tighten & Torque the Seal Retianer into place.
Silicon up the sides of the Seal Retainer to the Block, deleting the paper inserts. (The paper side inserts probably won't go in anyways due to the Retainer offset installation)

Sometimes it's the SIMPLE things that cause alot of headaches, later, after assembly.

Just something to "watch out for".

I'll check with Brandon at 440source, I dunno if he's run into this or not ?

Might be a good "piece of paper" to include in his kits with the Cranks he sells.
Many Oil leaks probably aren't his Cranks fault.
But it might lessen some Customer perception headaches for him.

Thats it, Thats all,

I said my peace,

Bob out.

 
thanks for the replys guys, ive never heard of the offaset seal groove deal before. very interesting. and ill look into the other company, thanks
 
Have you identified that it's the lip seal for certain? Could it be the side seals leaking?
 
Have you identified that it's the lip seal for certain? Could it be the side seals leaking?
indeed its the lip seals leaking. i had the wifey at the wheel and me underneath, with everything brake cleaned and dry, she started it up while i was watching and the first place the oil started to oose from was the seal. crazy. just crazy. this is the first bb ive had a problem with the seal....
 
I sometimes have to machine a llittle off the aluminum seal retainer. I grind them on my rod and cap grinder. The seal should protrude a little on both halves.

I just had another shop that had a real bad leaker on the Dyno. I cut the aluminum retainer .020" and it sealed up tight....not a drop. They did the fix right on the Dyno.
 
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