Replacement wheel studs help.

[JetCoronet]

Ive tried like 5 different kinds of studs so far on my Coronet and nothing works. If its long enough then the splines are wrong. If the splines are right, the whole stud is like 3/4 of an inch long(no joke i have one like that)

What studs have yall used to replace the factory ones? My vision is to be able to get the drum and hub apart freely so i can replace the drum now and then and still keep the hub. I just need something that will mash into the hub and be long enough to work.

It appears like the spline area should be about .630 in diameter i think. Im guessing they need to be about 2 1/2 - 3 inches long.

 

[lewtot184]

I tried some dormans last month. Kinda crappy. Threads weren't machined deep enough and ruined the lug nuts.

 

[GetX'd]

You might ask the Wizard @dadsbee - I’ve seen he’s posted on getting new studs. I switched mine over to all right hand during resto because the left hand idiosyncrasies of Mopar on this is a dying piece of knowledge and for future owners I handed them a break. I don’t remember where I got them….

 

[dadsbee]

Sorry nope, not me, but Craig will have what you need @mobileparts

 

[Kern Dog]

Ive tried like 5 different kinds of studs so far on my Coronet and nothing works. If its long enough then the splines are wrong. If the splines are right, the whole stud is like 3/4 of an inch long(no joke i have one like that)

What studs have yall used to replace the factory ones? My vision is to be able to get the drum and hub apart freely so i can replace the drum now and then and still keep the hub. I just need something that will mash into the hub and be long enough to work.

It appears like the spline area should be about .630 in diameter i think. Im guessing they need to be about 2 1/2 - 3 inches long.

Why do you need them so long? Are you running a drag car or some super thick spacers?

Here is what I used on my own car, it isn't a drag racer build though.

Stock length was short and didn't allow enough thread contact with my aluminum wheels. You can see the shiny replacement in the background above.

Stock was 15/16", the Dormans were 1 1/4".

 

[Don67Satellite]

I used the above pictured Dorman studs on mine, worked perfectly.

 

[67belvodere]

My struggle with studs has led me to start with Dorman 610-080: 1/2-20, 0.625" knurl, 1 & 15/16" long. Good length, but the studs were loose after drawing them in.
So, stepping up to 0.630" knurl, I found Dorman 610-519: 1/2-20, 0.629" (or 0.630" some others have listed), 2.22". Still a good length, but again, not tight enough.
After briefly thinking I'd get my son to tig weld them in place, he mentioned that adding heat to some critical suspension pieces was probably not advisable...nor a good idea if we want to replace the stud later...ok, fine.
I'm now looking at going with some aftermarket options (Moser, ARP, Moroso, etc.) thinking I'd step up to 0.645 or 0.65 knurl, but not many options with a long enough knurl section. So, next step up seems a 0.680" knurl, which requires drilling out the hub to 0.672" or 43/64" (17 mm for us Metric folks). Not a common drill bit, I'll say that (5/8 bit fits snug but not snug enough, that's supposed to be 0.625").
Seriously, this should not be such a struggle!

 

[67belvodere]

I used the above pictured Dorman studs on mine, worked perfectly.

Don and Kern, Dorman shows those have a .684 knurl diameter, did you have to open the existing hole up at all or did they just press in?

 

[Don67Satellite]

Don and Kern, Dorman shows those have a .684 knurl diameter, did you have to open the existing hole up at all or did they just press in?

They pressed right in, no problems. I had the same issue as @Kern Dog in that I needed a longer stud than stock for the new Scott Drake aluminum "Magnum 500s" I was putting onto the car. These studs fit perfect on my rear axles and also allowed me to get all right hand thread on the car. Getting the rims to play nicely with my Wilwood's up front, well that was a different battle, but it was won.

 

[RemCharger]

Mr Gasket 4311 3" studs for the correct rear knurl and fit.

 

[Kern Dog]

Don and Kern, Dorman shows those have a .684 knurl diameter, did you have to open the existing hole up at all or did they just press in?

I didn't pull the axles to press the studs in. I pulled them into place with a lug nut as shown in the picture. They didn't just slip in easily, it took an impact wrench to get it done. I have at least 1500 miles on the setup and the car rides smooth.

 

[Don67Satellite]

I also didn't need to pull the axles to change them, but I did use a "wheel stud installation tool" and an impact gun.

 

[67belvodere]

Thanks for the replies and sorry to hijack this thread. What did you use for front studs, as that's where I'm struggling.