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Replacing torsion bars

moparjohnny

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I have removed floor pan,what should i look for on torsion bar cross member to indicate it needs to be replaced?no rust thru that i see,same for torsion bars these are original should they be replaced,if so how do take them loose. Thanks
 
Look for any stress cracks around the torsion bar anchors in the cross member. If there are none and there's no rust, it's fine. Raise the car in the front. Completely unload the torsion bar adjusting bolts in the lower control arm. Remove the torsion bar retaining clips from the back of the torsion bar anchors. There's a special tool that clamps on the torsion bar and allows you to strike it with a large hammer and dislodge the torsion bar going towards the rear. I have a tool somewhat similar to this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/mopar-torsi...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2326ec466b&vxp=mtr

You can do it without the tool....like with vise grips and such, but I like using the right stuff. That way, you don't scar the torsion bar up and risk ripping the new boot on installation. Remember, when you reinstall, lube the hexes of the bars up really good. I use Permatex Anti Seize Compound. It's good to 2000 degrees and will not wash off. This will assure they will come right out the next time.
 
Check the ends of the crossmember and where the front rail ties in to it.If no rot treat em and your good to go.
 
I'm generally with Rusty re using the right tools, but this trick is to cool not to share: Grab an old 1" bicycle handlebar stem. (You DO have one of those right?) Clamp the part which fits over the handlebar onto the torsion bar, and rap on the other end with a hammer. The stem is designed to hold a round bar, and actually provides an even better clamping surface than the tool (I compared the two of them). Works great, and it's retro!

Mancini Racing has the tool if you want one. It's kinda cool too in a specialized one purpose tool kinda way...
 
Sometimes you'll also need to remove the bullet shaped upper control arm bumbers to get the suspension to full extension.
 
Sometimes you'll also need to remove the bullet shaped upper control arm bumbers to get the suspension to full extension.

Purt near bout everytime. I've done um so much, I leave little stuff out when I explain sumffin. Also too most of the time you even need an extra person to pry down on the control arm with a pry bar to take that last bit of tension off. That helps.
 
Purt near bout everytime. I've done um so much, I leave little stuff out when I explain sumffin. Also too most of the time you even need an extra person to pry down on the control arm with a pry bar to take that last bit of tension off. That helps.

Could be worse.....could of failed to mention the retaining clips. Next thing you know he's trying to pull out the bars with a tow strap hooked to a rusted out '64 C-10 and a 350lb broad nicknamed Itchy in the front seat.
 
I tell you, when you are talking about 50 year old sprung steel, if you are that far along in a build spend the $2-300 and put a new set in now so you never have to think about it again...
 
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