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Resto Mods

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65 Satellitte with 318, Want modifications will I need to do to put in a 4 speed ( now auto) and 440 bottom end with Max Wedge cross Ram top end,, part #,s and suppliers would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
 
are you asking if you can put a 440 bottom end in a 318?
 
Seriously, I would like to help but I don't have a spare month to do YOUR homework. Part of the fun of this hobby is doing the research; then, if you have questions, we all will be glad to help you. Asking for all the answers at once is just not practical.
 
Ok. The I,st answer is the 318 comes out and is used for my boat anchor( no 440 for bottom end) ? AND yes I will do my homework, just thought I would ask and did,nt expect ONE person to give me all the answers, Thanks
 
The Max Wedge crossram and heads is the dead last thing I would ever recommend for anything. There are so many better choices now, I will never understand why people still want to use the archaic stuff. I mean, I am old school and all, but I draw the line at sacrificing performance trying to look cool.

Best thing to do is get to know the car you HAVE. Buy a factory service manual for it. FACTORY. Not Haynes or Chilton, but CHRYSLER. That will answer a ton of your questions right there. Just know that you have an early B body. There are things about them that are different than 66 and way different than 67 and up. The internet is your friend.
 
65 Satellitte with 318, Want modifications will I need to do to put in a 4 speed ( now auto) and 440 bottom end with Max Wedge cross Ram top end,, part #,s and suppliers would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

The short of it:
The biggest 'modification' will be to the floor pan to incorporate the shifter hole. You will need to cut a hole on the driver's side of the hump to install the 'bumped out' section that would add space underneath the car for linkage and shifter movement. These are reproduced just like any other re-pop sheet metal.

Other stuff...but I don't consider these 'mods' as they are One-for-One swaps or basic additions:
-Swap out the single pedal (brake) assembly for a two pedal (clutch & brake) assembly
-Any brackets for the different motor, i.e.: alternator/ power steering/ AC mounts. Not all brackets swap over
-You may also need to go to a larger radiator
-Throttle cable will likely need to be replaced as it won't reach.
-An exhaust hanger mount may need to be installed on the driver's side just across from the existing one on the passenger side to accomidate dual exhaust.

Some may suggest your 741 3rd member should be upgraded to a 742 or 489, but unless you are planning on a torque monster motor and some high RPM clutch drops, I don't know that you'll 'need' it.

Everything else should work as is. There is no big weight difference because you would be losing a (Poly) A318 which is about 150lbs heavier than the LA318s.
 
Thanks for the reply, I do have a Manual, same thing as when I did my AAR went to for E body's only for 5 years and they helped out Fantastic, so here I am with a b body less then 2 months since I got it and just asking for advice. Maybe go six pack. I know about them. Thanks again Rusty

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Dako Thanks for your reply too, I did all that with my AAR, shifter hole in floor, bigger rad etc etc. so you have answered my question do everything the same as my other project, this 318 has a 4 barrel and has the dual exhaust with that bracket. 3rd member is a 489 Thanks again
 
Rusty: I've seen you say this several times, so let me enlighten you as to why I run a crossram. Anytime I'm out and about people young and old come over to look at my Fury. They always want to see under the hood and when I open it you can see the confusion in their faces. "Is that your air cleaner? How come you have 2 of them? Wow, that's like 4 times the size of my Honda's motor." The youngsters get an education about the old days of muscle cars and the oldsters get to remember when their buddy had one just like this. My car is not original and is how I would have modified it in the mid 60s. If I wasn't mechanically minded, or was only interested in beating the other guy to the next light, I would undoubtedly run an aluminum single plane with a Holley carburetor. But, I am and, I'm not... I raced and worked out of a speed shop for many years and know how to go fast, but these days my reactions are too slow, even for my 'old, throw-back crossram'.
 
To the OP, the first thing to concentrate on would be the chasis, as what you are talking about building is useless unless you can hook. That would mean springs, torsion bars, most likely subframe cons, I personally seam weld. Since you plan to put a 4000 lb cruise missle on the street, upgrade the brakes. And rebuild the front end. Now that you have a platform that can take the build, have fun- put a crossram with MW heads, etc. But, if you try to just run a 50 year old car as it sits with a lot of HP, you will 1) twist the body, 2) break really weird parts 3) not have an enjoyable time because of 1&2, 4)kill yourself or someone else because you are trying to get 50 year old drums to stop said cruise missle.
Not telling you not to, just pointing out a step I see a lot of people missing on this site- namely stop and turn are way more important than go....and a flexed out body doesnt put power to ground.
 
Thanks for your input, Yes i will be upgrading all those
 
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Dave the crossram is cool, there's no denying it. In its day it set records. But the fact is, it's not very efficient.


Rusty: I agree, it's old school technology. However, if I was interested in efficiency I would be running a FAST EFI unit or similar high tech set-up. Fact is, I love the look for the reasons I mentioned and it's MY car. Appreciate your opinions though.
 
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