Scott LeRoy
New Member
OK guys I have a 69 Satellite and after figuring out that someone put a 70 engine harness in it and rigged up the horn, I replaced the harness and installed the correct relay but the horn didn't work. I had power to the turn signal switch connector, so off came the steering wheel. There I found a brass roller and a spring rolling around. I started scratching my head about how in the hell this worked, I searched all over with no help. I did find some good close up pics of the contact plate on new switches and realized it's soldered to the terminal . Now is where being a Mechanic for 25 years comes in handy. Needing to fix this and seeing the prices of new switches are outrageous and NOS parts are crazy I decided to find a way to fix it. As for cost of repair the iron and solder are under $10 at AutoZone.
Tools needed for this repair:
Soldering iron (needle type) AutoZone part #85362
Fine Solder (60/40 rosin flux) AutoZone part #13462
1/16" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Small Visegrip pliers
Steering wheel puller
3/4" socket for steering wheel nut
Clean rag
Gloves
* If not already removed, pull the steering wheel*
Step 1 - Disconnect the connector from the base of the column.
Step 2 - Remove the three screws holding the steel retaining ring and lay the light out of the way and remove the ring.
Step 3 - Remove the stalk retaining screw from the cancel cam and remove the stalk.
Step 4 - Carefully lift up the switch and pull it out toward you about 6 inches.
Step 5 - Put the roller in a vice with the pin end up and you will see a small dimple. Drill it slowly with the 1/16th bit about 1/8" down.
Step 6 - Let the soldering iron get good and hot, swipe the hot iron slowly across the terminal to clear the solder from the terminal revealing the hole in the terminal. Use gloves and a rag to help remove the
solder. Then using sandpaper thoroughly clean the pin side of the roller.
Step 7 - Using the 1/8" bit locked into a pair of Vise grips slowly twist the bit to open the hole up by hand. This will allow the pin to fit tightly into the terminal. Don't oversize the hole it must fit tight.
Step 8 - Assemble the spring and roller and insert into the top of the contact plate, then from the back push the terminal over the pin until it is just past the terminal. This will allow the roller and terminal to float so you can solder the assembly.
Step 9 - Set the pointed end of the soldering iron into the dimple and start touching the solder to the terminal until it meltes and flows out then quickly remove the iron and allow the terminal and roller to cool.
After it cools push the roller down and make sure when it's at rest the terminal is against the plastic.
Step 10 - Reassemble and test.
Tools needed for this repair:
Soldering iron (needle type) AutoZone part #85362
Fine Solder (60/40 rosin flux) AutoZone part #13462
1/16" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Small Visegrip pliers
Steering wheel puller
3/4" socket for steering wheel nut
Clean rag
Gloves
* If not already removed, pull the steering wheel*
Step 1 - Disconnect the connector from the base of the column.
Step 2 - Remove the three screws holding the steel retaining ring and lay the light out of the way and remove the ring.
Step 3 - Remove the stalk retaining screw from the cancel cam and remove the stalk.
Step 4 - Carefully lift up the switch and pull it out toward you about 6 inches.
Step 5 - Put the roller in a vice with the pin end up and you will see a small dimple. Drill it slowly with the 1/16th bit about 1/8" down.
Step 6 - Let the soldering iron get good and hot, swipe the hot iron slowly across the terminal to clear the solder from the terminal revealing the hole in the terminal. Use gloves and a rag to help remove the
solder. Then using sandpaper thoroughly clean the pin side of the roller.
Step 7 - Using the 1/8" bit locked into a pair of Vise grips slowly twist the bit to open the hole up by hand. This will allow the pin to fit tightly into the terminal. Don't oversize the hole it must fit tight.
Step 8 - Assemble the spring and roller and insert into the top of the contact plate, then from the back push the terminal over the pin until it is just past the terminal. This will allow the roller and terminal to float so you can solder the assembly.
Step 9 - Set the pointed end of the soldering iron into the dimple and start touching the solder to the terminal until it meltes and flows out then quickly remove the iron and allow the terminal and roller to cool.
After it cools push the roller down and make sure when it's at rest the terminal is against the plastic.
Step 10 - Reassemble and test.
