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Roller Rockers for a 383?

Road Grabber

Road Grabber

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Can anyone suggest a set of roller rockers that fit under the covers for a 383?

A set of push rods to suggest with the rockers?

I'm just using a stock magnum cam.

I don't want to use the stock stamped ones......

Thank you
 
Road Grabber said:
I don't want to use the stock stamped ones......
Click to expand...

Why not?? There is no performance advantage to roller rockers. If anything they are more prone to failure. And there is nothing to be gained from the adjustability if you get the right length pushrods. And on a hydraulic cam there is even room for error there. On a cam that's close to stock you should stick to the "tried and true" stock rockers. Personally I'd buy a set of beefier shafts and leave it at that. Stock shafts had a tendency to pinch out of round when bolted down. Spend that money on a performance enhancer like an intake or something. Or buy you wife and kids some new clothes. Way better places to spend the money than roller rockers!
 
Mancini's house-brand rockers at the minimum. For pushrods, anything from Summit that fits....you have some leeway with hydraulic lifters but measure carefully anyway. If you want to step up to a higher-quality pushrod you can get a set made by the Smith Bros for around $200-$250. If you want rollers, run them and don't look back. Just beware that they aren't a "slap 'em on and go" type of install. There's plenty of good info here and on FABO in that department though so don't let it discourage you..
 
Well, you'll be able to brag that "it has roller rockers". But it won't run any better or faster!
 
With that cam, the stock rockers are fine. You're just adding weight w a roller at that stage.
 
I put Crane roller rockers in my 400 when I built it back in '94. They've been trouble free but a bit of a waste of money if I am being honest. If I did it again, I would just reinstall the factory stamped rockers. They did fit just fine under the valve covers.
 
Stanton said:
Why not?? There is no performance advantage to roller rockers. If anything they are more prone to failure. And there is nothing to be gained from the adjustability if you get the right length pushrods. And on a hydraulic cam there is even room for error there. On a cam that's close to stock you should stick to the "tried and true" stock rockers. Personally I'd buy a set of beefier shafts and leave it at that. Stock shafts had a tendency to pinch out of round when bolted down. Spend that money on a performance enhancer like an intake or something. Or buy you wife and kids some new clothes. Way better places to spend the money than roller rockers!
Click to expand...

For stock lift profiles yes. But higher lift cams there’s a definite advantage to using a stronger roller rocker set up
 
I noticed some wear and I heard they aren't very accurate for ratio. I was thinking by now there must be something reasonable for the street. To be honest I haven't looked at prices yet. I could look into a set of heavier duty stamped too.

Would anyone know if Mopar offers heavier duty ones if I did choose to get them?

My factory six pack had heavier ones....

I do appreciate the feedback.
 
I believe the 6-pak unit were heavier but not sure if they're still available. As far as ratio accuracy goes, the difference is negligible and its unlikely performance difference would even show up on a dyno. And don't for one minute think that just because you buy a set of extruded aluminum 1.5:1 roller rockers that you're actually going to get 1.5:1 lift ratio !!!

Opinions will vary but believe me, you'll gain more from set of thicker rocker shafts than you will from a rocker upgrade.

That said, some smartass is going to chime in and say "well you'll gain performance if you go to a 1.6:1 roller rocker". Yeah, sure ... after you have at the heads to grind pushrod clearance !!

Roller rockers, shafts and pushrods is going to set you back a minimum $500 - and that's for cheapo rockers. There are much better places to spend that money on any motor with a relatively stock cam.

Stock rockers fit under stock valve covers
 
Stanton said:
I believe the 6-pak unit were heavier but not sure if they're still available. As far as ratio accuracy goes, the difference is negligible and its unlikely performance difference would even show up on a dyno. And don't for one minute think that just because you buy a set of extruded aluminum 1.5:1 roller rockers that you're actually going to get 1.5:1 lift ratio !!!

Opinions will vary but believe me, you'll gain more from set of thicker rocker shafts than you will from a rocker upgrade.

That said, some smartass is going to chime in and say "well you'll gain performance if you go to a 1.6:1 roller rocker". Yeah, sure ... after you have at the heads to grind pushrod clearance !!

Roller rockers, shafts and pushrods is going to set you back a minimum $500 - and that's for cheapo rockers. There are much better places to spend that money on any motor with a relatively stock cam.

Stock rockers fit under stock valve covers
Click to expand...

Thank you for the feedback
 
440 Source roller rockers are nice, just have to file down the corners on the aluminum hold downs on the very ends ant they fit fine
 
I wouldn’t buy a cheap set of $500 adjustables either. T&D, Hughes, comp pro magnum is what I would choose. Stay away from needle bearing ones

Stock rockers are more like an effective 1.45 ratio.

Yes good rockers at grand plus pushrods add up, but valvetrain and the motor is not a place I would scrimp.

I had two mopar performance adjustable pushrods eat themselves apart at the tip and wreck the rocker arms too. Not good. Just a matter of time before the others would do it.

Bought comp pushrods after that and a set comp pro magnums and haven’t looked back.

Again, for lower lift cams stock heavy duty (if they are available) rocker arms would suffice.
 
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Stanton said:
Now add pushrods to that !! Cha-ching !!
Click to expand...

Agree with 4mulas, valevtrain is not something to cheap out on. I'm always in favor of spending a little more on a better mousetrap but that's just me. I suppose lots of people are fine with the stock stuff.

Not sure what the OP cam is or what the rest of the combo is like but if you have any sort of spring pressure (even with a hydraulic cam) there is a risk of putting a pushrod through a rocker arm tip. Doesn't happen often and obviously not with factory iron adjustbale rockers but it does happen with the hydraulic ones. The stock valve gear has limits, you will find them when you try to make them do things they were never designed to handle.

The second part is the well-known issue of questionable valve lift. I mean, if you're gonna spend money on a cam why handicap it by losing lift? Think of the NHRA stock class guys who have to run stock rockers. They go through piles and piles of them to find the ones that have the best net ratios. If you're just bolting on a random set without going through that process you are taking a leap of faith.

The unknown lift caveat is not likely a huge deal on a street cruiser but why go through the effort on some stuff but then say screw it on the rockers and let the chips fall as they may?
 
IMHO..
The best roller rockers are the Harland/Sharp..
Not cheap but USA made, once set up properly they run forever.
Just my $0.02... ;)
 
These are made by harland sharp but with bushings. We have these and original harland sharps with needle bearings. The bushings are a better fit on the street. Imo anything cheaper I would just keep w oem stamped steel.
https://www.manciniracing.com/mre5700192841.html
Screenshot_20210808-203230_Chrome.jpg
 
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Everyone has an opinion so here is mine. While roller rockers and lifters will not increase horse power they do FREE UP horse power. Anything that you can do to reduce friction will free up hp. And while this may not make car faster or increase hp ( generally roller cam kit adds few hp) it does allow the motor to achieve better performance and still keep OE look. Me, I taking to sets of covers and cutting both tops off and then putting two covers together to make one pair. I’ll spend more time grinding weld than cutting and welding.
 
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